Boulder winter youth open 2014

This year has been incredible; getting on the team, meeting new people, going to a European, some experiences I never thought possible. This weekend would determine if I could re live that all over again! And I wanted it so much. 

 The 7th and 8th of Demeber saw the return of the bouldering and leading weekend. The bouldering was to be on Saturday, much to my delight. 

I travelled up with Hannah and her dad, and after a slightly chaotic journey to say the least, we somehow managed to arrive at Jury's inn. I was pleasently surprised to find an ice dispenser as I have a small obsession with ice cubes.

Saturday morning I got up before Hannah as Youth B start earlier. I arrived at the works and checked out the problems. We had 8 to do in 2 hours and a half. As expected, they looked so good, and really funky as well. 

After a bit of socialising, route reading, and warming up we got started. I stepped onto the mats feeling slightly more nervous than usual. There was a lot at stake; this could be the last time I wear the GB kit. I tried to forget everything and focus on one thing: crush. 

I felt my warm up was really thorough so I didn't need to queue for the easiest one as my first problem. I jumped on a few medium-grade ones and bagged a few flashes. Moving on to slightly harder ones, I managed to dispatch a dynamic/campusy bloc, but dropped the slab. I decided to have a break as we still had about an hour and half left. Feeling fresh again, I went on to try the hardest problem, which was shared with the boys so the queue was gradually increasing. After a lot of faffing about I got my act together and secured the bonus, but the last move proved to be challenging. I knew it was doable, so I got back on soon after. I couldn't figure out that last move, so I chose to save my last attempt for later. I went back to the slab and it felt so much easier this time, knowing the right beta. I managed to top it and I was so happy! Only one left now!

Half an hour left and that queue was getting really long. I put my scorecard in and had time to cool down, rest, and re warm up again. Stepping on the bloc I felt so strong and confident that I would top this. Falling off was not even an option. When it came to the last move I positioned my feet, pounced and caught the hold! That was when I realised something - if I had doubted my ability and thought I might fall off, I wouldn't have gotten the problem. But since I knew I could, I did. Simple as. 

             - photo Peter Wuensche

            - photo Nick Pope

I had finished qualifications with 8 tops in 11 attempts, making finals in 2nd just behind Catrin, who secured 8 tops in 10 attempts. Effort to her who isn't even a boulderer :) 

So off to isolation we went. 

The finals were to be in 4+ format. So 4 minutes to do the problem but if we are still on the problem when the clock runs down we can continue. The warm up area was satisfactory so I felt strong when going out for my first problem. Looking at it, I thought I could do it. However, the holds were in fact slopers which amplified the difficulty. The move which had thrown off the other competitors was proving to be challenging - a pop to a sloper which you had to stick but I kept cutting loose and swinging off. I wasn't getting pumped so I could pile on attempts to figure out the move. At 30 seconds I jumped on, stuck the move, slipped in my heel, but it popped and I came down. I had time for one last attempt. I couldn't latch the sloper and I swung off. Nobody managed to top it. I got the bonus first attempt, so I was relatively pleased. 

           - Photo Peter Wuensche

              Swing! Photo - Sandy Carr

The second problem was techy and pumpy. Going for the wrong hold on my first attempt threw me off but I corrected this in my 2nd and achieved the top. I didn't know this yet, but if I had flashed this I would have won. 

                 Me and Tommy on bloc 2 , photo Peter Wuensche

Third problem was perfect. Balancey, volumey, slaby. I was happy to get this first attempt even though the last move saw me barn door like mad! Not proud of that but pleased to achieve the top.

My efforts put me into 2nd place. I am of course delighted with this position, but for the first time ever, I was disappointed not to have won. It was so close. Separated by one attempt. If I had just known the avoid the undercut. But that's just the way the cookie crumbles and if somebody had to beat me I'm over the moon it was fellow Westway climber Becky Whaley. She made the team, a dream of hers since a long time. I also made the team and I'm soooo psyched for 2014! Gonna be a sick year :D 

           Interesting face on the podium.. Photo - Nick Pope 

I'll post up another blog for the lead event the next day sometime soon :) 

My First EYC (Laval)

Sunday 12th of October marked the date of my first ever EYC.

On the Thursday before, Molly, Alex and I travelled up to Manchester airport where we met the rest of the team. We then flew to Paris Charles de Gaulle and waited (a rather long time) for the rental cars. We finally set off and I was lucky enough to be in the spacious car, along with Jen and Tara. After finally escaping the horrendous Parisian traffic we stopped at a service station and had dinner. This gave people an opportunity to practise their French. We then headed back in the cars, and drove to Laval. The journey took over 4 hours, but with the many games of Candy Crush, time flew by.

We arrived at the hotel at about 11 pm absolutely shattered. Thank goodness none of us had to climb the day after. We organized the rooms and went straight to bed.

Friday saw us visiting the town. First stop was the chocolate shop. I had to help Pete a little bit though... But we finally managed to buy the chocolates and continued our little tour. The town was very old and the roads very steep and winding. A massive difference compared to London! Afterwards we had the technical meeting and the opening ceremony. It was so cool to see Nathan hold up the British flag alongside the other nations. I felt a little sorry for him though, because he had to stand on the stage for about 20 minutes while all the speeches we said (in French).

So Saturday finally rolled around. When we arrived at the arena, we were mind blown. Four blocs were built on the stage of a colossal auditorium. The psyche levels were rising...

We watched the Junior and Youth A girls crush these sick problems, and then the Youth A boys. Hamish had to pull out because of his back about half and hour in. He finished 8th, and it goes without saying he would have probably made the finals if it weren't for his injury.

The last category of the day was the Junior boys. Everybody was psyched for this, as Nathan had good chances of making finals. After cranking, the results came and he qualified in 5th place! The Youth B category was climbing the next day so we went to a restaurant to get a proper meal. After many conversations about haggis we headed back to the arena to watch Nathan in the final. He absolutely crushed, making the team so proud. We watched the last few climbers of his category together, already celebrating that he had come 2nd. But then the shocker of the night, the Italian guy who had supposedly won couldn't top the last problem, which meant Nathan had won!!!! It was the best moment of the entire weekend, even if the Italian team now hate us.

I was so psyched to climb now.

Sunday arrived and Sid, Michelle, Claire and I were up bright and early to go to the center. We climbed in a different place to the other categories, which was strange and slightly disappointing. But this place looked sick too and I was too psyched to care.

After a really good warm up Sid and I started our problems. I got on a bloc which looked like it would suit me perfectly. A pressy/bridgy start into a big rockover. I completely misinterpreted it, as it turned out to be a dyno. I had 2 gos on it then considered it as time wasting. I then flashed 3 problems, including one that had thrown off a few Italians. Now really confident, I moved on a pink one. It consisted of basically two massive core holds, and you had to press to the top. I held the hold wrong on my first attempt and dropped it. I consulted Claire about it and she gave me the beta. I then got it 2nd attempt. The next problem I tried was a weird volumy one. After seeing the French try it with some crazy heel hook beta I decided I would do it the normal way. It worked, and I achieved another flash. Next I tried something a bit more burly. A white problem with big throwy moves. Quite confident I could top it, I tried it. I didn't latch the hold of the first move and came off. This happened four times. I left it and went to the slab. I had 5 minutes left and queue was so long. My turn came and the clock showed one minute left. It's fine, I thought, if I'm on the wall I've got all the time I need. So I got on and wrong footed myself. This resulted in an awkward swap feet and I slipped off the first hold. That was absolutely gutting, because I knew I could have gotten the problem. I had one last try on the whites but didn't get any further. So my final result was 5 tops in 6 attempts, putting me into 7th place! I was soooo happy with this result, and even though I was one top from the final, I don't think I am ready to climb in and international final quite yet. And anyway, I am still in Youth B next year!

               

   The last category of the weekend was the Youth B boys. We shared a few problems, but the setters had made them a lot harder. All of the team climbed so well; Will and Pete even made finals! Watching them in the finals later on was amazing, it was so good to see them both enjoy themselves and smile throughout. The other competitors were all so serious about winning and got terribly demoralised when they fell off. In the end our team's good spirits (and Pete's crowd raiser) payed off: Pete came 5th and Will came third! The best ending possible to the weekend!

  That evening we had a mini party with cake celebrating Nathan's victory and thanking him for being team captain for an amazing year. I was introduced to the crazy game of jungle speed which I am so buying.

  It was such an awesome event. Bouldering in an EYC is completely different to british comps. European style suits me so well, I loved climbing on it so much! being alongside the continent's best boulderers is a weird and wonderful experience. Seeing their countries on their vests, and best of all climbing with my country on my vest is exhilarating. 

  I would also like to say thank you to the team for cheering so loudly because it helps so much knowing that you've got massive support. We achieved our goal of being the loudest team by far, and the commentator loves us for it :) And I think Ed, James and Pete have enriched French vocab now!

Next blog will be about Winer Youth Open and 2014 Team Selection! 

Thanks Molly Thompson-Smith and Sandy Carr for photos! 

BLCC's 2013

I was unsure whether or not I should compete in this comp, as it a leading one. But in the end I decided I wanted to see where I ranked nationally, and if I could improve on my last year's 9th place. 

The competition was held in the new Awesome Walls Sheffield, which hadn't even officially opened yet.  I warmed up and the holds were so new that they scratched my hands. At least they were grippy!  

I got on my first route and was extremely sketchy on the last few moves but managed to top it. This put me into joint 1st place but unfortunately my success didn't last very long as I dropped down to 7th place after my second quali. The move was an awkward crossover but I decided to match and lank instead. Big mistake though, as my hand popped off reaching for the hold. 

I wasn't too bothered but coming 7th is pretty gutting because it's missing out on the finals by 1 spot. Oh well at least I improved on last year! 

Next was the speed event. I also competed in this last year and came 6th. It was all for fun but in the end I some how managed to come 2nd! So that was awesome! And the EYC was in 1 week... Psyched! 

Things are looking up (BMCyo)

After an amazing day winning the JBBC's, an achievement I never thought possible, I was so excited for the day ahead: the leading summer youth open. I had no pressure and no nerves, only psyche.

We had a yummy dinner at Nando's and plenty of frozen yoghurt! A good night's sleep later and it was Sunday. For this comp, I just wanted to climb my best and push as hard as I could, my final position didn't matter as leading is not my primary discipline.

The first qualifying route looked good. Steep, juggy, powerful. I got on it and after the first few tricky moves I got into the flow of the climb. The jugs were worse than they looked but still good. I felt smooth but as the wall got steeper my arms got pumped. A good heel hook gave me a rest and secured me a few more moves until my fingers peeled off. Overall happy with how I climbed, I rested for the second qualifier.

It was a static route; small, sharp crimps and a technical sequence. Our demo-er took three rests on it so that was not very encouraging.

I started off sketchy but I stuck the crux and relaxed a bit. I muddled up the sequence which cost me valuable energy and popped off on a cross over. If I hadn't made that mistake I would have got a few extra moves but I wasn't too annoyed because I still got further than I thought I would.

So the results came and miraculously I had qualified for the finals in joint 5th place! I wasn't expecting to, so it was a great surprise!

The final route looked so hard and not at all my style. I climbed tentatively at first and flash pumped trying to clip. the rope kept on slipping out of my hand and as I got it in I only had the energy to throw for a plus point. Watching the other girls try it only three got past me, so that put me in fourth place!

I used to come fourth in EVERYTHING. In YCS, RocFest, BlocFest, Westway Xmas Comp, SIBL... etc.

But for the first time ever I was absolutely over the moon to come fourth. I used to be annoyed at how close it was to the podium, but instead I was overjoyed by how close it was to the podium!!! It was an improvement to the Winter Youth Open where I came 6th, and I never even expected to make finals. So to be that close was an amazing achievement.

Amazing weekend. Improvements in both disciplines and  a massive confidence boost. Can't wait for the European Youth Boulder Cup in Laval!


(Sorry there are so photos; I'm writing this in France and the photos are in London, they should be up within the week though) 

Podiums, Prizes and Plates.

It's funny how things can change so quickly.

I remember when I got selected for the team. I was so overwhelmed and overjoyed by the fact of being on the team, but felt a lot of pressure to perform consistently at all comps. I didn't have the confidence that I could do that and thought that my competitors happened to climb badly the day of the selection comp. I couldn't believe in myself that I had the ability to climb the way I did on the day all the time. My self-assurance went up as my grades and results improved and got that confidence boost I needed. I could then train with more certainty for the upcoming competition.

So after that profound paragraph here is the climbing part of my blog:

Junior British Bouldering Championships Round 3

On the 2nd of August 2013, my mum, squad mate Sabina and I travelled up the Leeds for the boulder and lead Open Youth events.

The journey went quickly and I was so excited for the day ahead of us.

We arrived at Premier Inn and went to bed. I couldn't sleep because a mixture of nervousness and thrill churned in my stomach. I read a stupid book to bore myself to sleep and it worked. Although I woke up exhausted, the psyche and butterflies shook me up.

I ate my usual bacon and cereal and headed off to the Depot .

After the briefing and warm ups the girls started qualifiers. My problems looked very fun but also very dropable. I was careful with my footwork on my first few blocs and flashed four quite easily. Moving on to the hardest problem, I started it and moved through the powerful first section until reaching a poor tufa with no grip. I threw for the next hold but failed to stick it. Realising there was an arête I enquired whether it was in. Callum confirmed it was and the problem now made a lot more sense. My second attempt came and I held onto the arête, inched up to the thumb catch but bad body tension saw me unbalanced and I tipped off. Making a scary realisation that I only had one more attempt to do the problem, I bathed my hands in chalk and got back on it. I moved quickly through the first few moves, caught the alright part of the tufa and reached for the arête. Moving slowly up along it my hand latched the thumb catch and I repositioned myself to keep balanced until I could switch my other hand into an undercut. After doing so I dynoed the last move and matched the top hold. I was relieved to have gotten that, as I knew it would have irritated me later on!
















Qualifiers going really well!
-photo ©Bibi Basch






















After flashing a dynamic problem, I tried a slab. Hoping my slab and vert training had come in handy,  I moved through it smoothly and my controversial toe hook secured me the bonus and the top! One more problem to go.

The first move looked big but it wasn't too bad as the foothold was good. I flashed it, achieving my 8th top of the day! None of my competitors managed this, meaning I qualified for finals in first place!

Going out for the finals last was a first for me. Was it good to get the beta from the others or was it bad to have greasy holds? All was revealed after a long four hour wait. Youth B female went out last out of all the categories, which made the build up even more dramatic.

We shared the same problems as the Youth C girls so I hoped they wouldn't be too hard. In observation I looked at them and they looked so sick. The first two were just my style: crimpy, techy, slabby. The third looked so fun; starting in a roof, out into powerful moves until a big lank and a final jump. I knew this one would test me but I couldn't wait to get on it.

I flashed final bloc 1 although it was harder than it looked and the holds worse.

Final bloc 2 tested my nerve as I moved staticly through the reachy moves. I gained another flash, and went back into iso for the last time.

Final Bloc 1
-photo ©Bibi Basch




















So each girl went out and I was left alone. I heard a lot of encouragements for our last bloc but the clock ran down and no tops were achieved.

As my name was called and walked up to the problem, I made a realisation. All I needed was to get the bonus on my first attempt or get the problem within 4 minutes to win. So much psyche rushed through me at that moment as I heard all the supporters encourage me. I had to get that hold.

 I started it and the holds were good. Feeling steady, I used yet another toe hook (my new obsession) and moved through the first few moves. I cut loose, and debated whether I should campus the next move. It looked do-able but so much was riding on this problem that I couldn't risk dropping it. So I ignored my lazy conscience and used the foot hold. A big lank and a sketchy bridge later and before I knew it my fingers tickled the bonus hold. I swear my arm grew in the moment as I grabbed the hold, grabbed the gold. I finished off the bloc and came down so thrilled to have won my first national comp! Exciting times!

                 

                                                           One move away from winning...  

                                                                                               -Photo ©Bibi Basch    

                                                   

First national win!

-Photo ©Bibi Basch         

Another surprise was in store.. I had not only won the 3rd round but also the entire Championships in Youth B and was crowned Junior British Bouldering Champion in my category! Such an awesome achievement, I am so happy! And I got a cool plate that is worthy of a place on my wall!

British Bouldering Champion Youth B!

-Photo ©Bibi Basch

Training/ambitions (update)

I haven't posted in a while so I thought I would update a bit on my training, hopes, ambitions and goals for the future, something I haven't talked about yet. 

So lets begin with my training. 

I have been lucky in the sense that I have never been severely injured. My wrist was slightly sore for a few months and hindered me on certain moves such as presses and mantles, but the pain has vanished and my hands are strong again. My back tweaked slightly a few weeks ago. I took it easy, climbed static routes, consulted a sports physio, and everything is back to normal again! 

I have been trying the train more on overhanging boulders, as that's one of my weak points. I'm not seeing significant improvements so far, but training hard will bring that! I don't get frustrated if I don't finish a boulder, I see it as a new project to work towards, and the feeling of sending a project is so much more satisfying than that of flashing one. 

One domain where I can see improvement is slabs. I've always been a fan of slabs and verticals, balancey moves, minuscule holds, big slopey volumes, the lot! I was having a slab session the other day and was sending every single one of my projects, one after the other as if I was warming up. I am so pleased, I can now focus on other sections of the wall!  

Moving on to my hopes, goals, and ambitions.

2012. I spent the whole year training for one thing. Team GB. My climbing lifetime goal has always been making the British team, and when the team trials came, all my training , all my hard work, blood and sweat (literally!), was put to the test. Climbing and competing against the best of the country was amazing, but the best part was finding out that I ended up being one of the best in the country. I had been selected, everything had paid off, it was the happiest moment of my life. 

But there was one problem. Now that my lifetime goal was completed,  what was I training for? 

Of course there are the short term hopes, making finals in a comp, podiuming .. etc and then there are the long term ones...

 Seeing a few members of the GB bouldering team compete (And crush!!!) in Switzerland for their first EYC was so inspirational. It set me a new goal, something to work for, which is always a great motivation. 

So there it is. International competition. Ambition for 2013/14. 

Till next time!! 

Next posts:  

Summer Youth Open, lead, Leeds. 

Summer Youth Open, boulder, Leeds (BBC round 3 and recap on the series) 

-  end of July

Scottish Youth Bouldering Champs 2013

Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships (British Bouldering Championships round 2)

On Friday 3rd of May 2013, I travelled up to Glasgow on a five hour train journey that passed surprisingly quickly. Once arrived, we went to our trusty Premier Inn, and as always, had a very good night's sleep. Registration for the competition was at 11:00, so we got a lie in. 

The next day, I was feeling very psyched. I fuelled up with some bacon, then headed off to TCA. 

Before the comp Tom Greenall gave the team a little pep talk in preparation to the comp.

Feeling a little less nervous, I started warming up. I then moved on to my easy problems, then looked through the harder ones. I got on my first hard one, a techy problem with poor holds. I was a little apprehensive about the crux move, a cross over dyno, as this was not my strong point. With a lot of commitment my fingers stuck the hold, and I continued to top out. A lot of stress now removed, I flashed another difficult problem, in a cave. I was happy that all that cave training had come in handy! This left me with two more hard problems, and two easy ones. 

I tried a hard one, but I had the wrong beta and fell off a dyno twice. I watched Becky Whaley try the move differently, and she topped out. Doing the move her way made the problem a lot easier and I got it third attempt. 

Using the right beta

I flashed the two remaining easy ones, which left me with one problem.

The bloc consisted  of powerful moves. My first attempt I touched the bonus hold, but it was not enough for it to be counted. Second attempt I didn't get any further. Third attempt neither. Fourth attempt I fell off the start move. Even though I wanted to get back on it straight away I knew I wouldn't get any further. So I rested, had some recovery smoothie, and attempted the problem again. I decided I was really going to commit to the move that had previously thrown me off. I pulled hard on my heel and my arm, reached out and got the pocket with two fingers! I had gotten the bonus, I was in the final. I tried the rest of the problem, but didn't get very far.

                                                      The move I kept on falling off

We then waited for the results, had a bite to eat, a sip to drink. I had qualified in fourth place, Sidonie Graham in first, and Becky in 2nd. Westway climber Libby Gamble also qualified for the finals in 5th place. All three Westway girls in final once again, fantastic result! We knew the finals were going to be a spectacle with a supportive crowd, and fun lighting. So off to isolation we went. 

During observation, we looked at our problems and they seemed nasty! After warming up, the first climbers went out. This round of BBCs being slightly more organised then the last, the finalists didn't see each other after having climbed, and couldn't share beta. 

I went out for my first final bloc, read the route, and got on.  I got up it quite easily, the holds were new and grippy. I was extremely sketchy during the last move, my footwork was quite shameful. I was trying to work out a static way of doing the move, as the original beta but it didn't feel comfortable. So I just took my chances and jumped, and amazingly I stuck the hold! I was quite satisfied I had flashed the first bloc. 

                                               Climbing and topping out on final bloc 1

My second final problem wasn't quite as simple. The holds were worse then expected, and the moves bigger. Nevertheless, I threw for a sloper and fell off several times. Nearing the last few seconds, I stuck the sloper, I went for the 2nd bonus hold and held it sufficiently for it to be counted. I fell off because of bad body positioning, but I was overall happy with my performance. 

                                                             Sticking the sloper

My third and final boulder was the climax of my anti-style; reachy and technical moves on poor holds. I started the problem and fell off low down as the hold was worse then expected and my fingers slipped off. Now a bit more prepared I stuck the hold, reached out to a sloper, threw for a bad jug, and rocked over to a small crimp. The last move was big, and my foot popped off. I tried it again but didn't catch the jug. I took a rest and tried again at the last second. I couldn't catch the jug again, and fell off. 

All the competitors were extremely close in score, and it was hard to tell who had podiumed or not. The results arrived, and showed that I had come third! I was extremely pleased with this result, and I flew back to London in a very good mood. 

All photo credits to Bibi Basch. 

Leading Ladder Grand Final 2013

Today was the final of my first ever leading ladder.

Yesterday, the 26th of April 2013, I took the train from London Euston to Oxenholme. We then took a taxi to our luxurious hotel, Travelodge Kendal. After a good night's sleep, we headed off to the Lakeland climbing centre. A little apprehensive about these renowned 25 meter walls, a looked at my routes and they seemed hard, and very out of my comfort zone. 

I warmed up, them ran up the 6b+. I then went on the 6c; I climbed quite steadily until the roof section. I was just about to top out but a hold span. Thanks to my toe hook I stayed on (just about) and clipped the chain. I learned later on that I had in fact span the hold into place and made the move easier for the next climbers. 

 Next up was the 6c+. I belayed Hannah Wuensche, who got extremely high up considering her ongoing injuries. It was then my turn to try it. A long route on a vertical wall. this suited my perfectly and I topped out, although some moves were quite powerful. 

I had a short break, then eyed up the 7a. A short 7 clip route with very powerful moves. After hearing that only Alex Waterhouse had topped it, I was a little scared. I climbed up the route quite easily, but the crux section saw me getting very pumped. I got to the two finger pocket, but the final move which consisted of dynoing from the pocket to a crimp threw me off. 

I took a long rest and had a bite to eat before signing up for the 7a+, which was on the 25 meter overhanging wall. It looked daunting but I was excited to climb on the tallest indoor wall of Britain. So I got on and arrived quite quickly to the bonus hold, a huge jug. I rested, but apparently not sufficiently, as I started to get very pumped on the most overhanging section of the wall. I fought through it, and arrived at the last few moves. I was approaching the no hands rest, and tried to get to it quickly. Bad decision, as I couldn't stick a big move because of my tired arms, and I swung off. I was quite happy with how I had climbed, although I could have managed my time a bit better. 

This put me into joint 2nd position with Catrin Rose and behind fellow Westway climber Grace Fidler, a great result! 

At the prize ceremony, the judges made a counting error and put Catrin, Grace and me in joint 1st position. This was soon rectified and I was back in 2nd place. Grace deserved to be champion, as she put on an exceptional performance on the 7a+, which she flashed! 

It was a very fun day and I enjoyed the climbing very much as well as the Kendal mint cakes! 

Gorges Du Loup 2013

For these Easter holidays, I returned to Gorges du Loup, located in the South of France. We stayed at a friend's house, which was a half hours' drive from Nice airport.

I was sharing a house with 16 people; luckily I got on with all of them, so it was great company. 

Saturday, I could have a relaxed morning as we had an afternoon flight. 

At Gatwick airport, I met up with 3 of the 16 people with whom I flew. 

Once arrived in Nice, it was drizzling. Not a great sign for the rest of the week. We settled down, and a lovely dinner was awaiting us. We had a nice relaxing first evening. 

The next day, everybody else started to arrive. After a quick bite to eat, we headed straight off to Déversé, although we heard the seepage was bad. 

Once arrived, we checked out all the routes and only three were dry, plus one of the warm up routes.  The dry ones were way out of my grade range, so I went up the F6b+ warm up route. I slipped off because of bad footwork on a sketchy rockover, but I went back on it and with a bit more caution I stuck the move easily.  

The seepage at Déversé

Photo: Ellie May

With nothing to do all day, I went up the ladder leading to upstairs to check out the sick views.

On the ladder!

Photo: Ellie May

Day two was La Turbie, a beautiful crag overlooking the whole of Monico, a part of Italy and a part of France. Despite the difficult walk in, the views were spectacular.

The view of Monaco. Photo: Ellie May

We looked at one of the sectors called Big Ben, which was soaking and virtually unclimbable. The more advanced climbers went to another sector called La Grande Face in search of drier routes. The rest of us stayed here and climbed in Le Gentil, where the grades were more suited to our level. 

I warmed up on an F5c, nice and easy until the crux move; a tiny crimp to a two-finger pocket. I just about stuck the hold, and topped out. Next I moved on to an F6b. The rock was sharp and it dug into my fingers, now numb because of the cold. Nevertheless I carried on until my fingers gave in and I fell off. I took a long rest to bring back the circulation to my fingers, then continued until a hard move that I couldn't figure out. The good holds were hidden and it took me quite a few attempts of working the move to find the crimp, that is then used as an intermediate to bring your feet up and go again to a jug. After many painful attempts, I stuck the jug, and continued to the top of the route. I was happy to finish, as it took me quite a long time, and absolutely massacred my skin. 

I walked back to Big Ben to get some food, and found my good friend Pippa swinging across the roof of the cave! He said it was exhilarating, so I asked if I could try and he said yes! I climbed up an F4+ to get horizontal to the lip, then let go and did a huge swing across the cave, over and above the sea. The feeling was crazy, an absolute once in a lifetime experience! 

The Human Pendulum
Photo: Hannah Wuensche

                                      The Human Pendulum
                                      Photo: Ellie May

A great ending to an otherwise not so great day. 

Which brings us to day three, Mesa Verde! 

This crag was perfect. The grade range suited all of us, and we all ended up with projects. 

We decided to start off on the easiest route of the crag, an F6c. Libby lead up it first, but couldn't see the end, but luckily there was a quickdraw already in the wall about 15 meters up along the route, she she clipped into that and stripped the route. Ellie then did in on toprope, followed by me. The rock was crumbly and unpleasant, not a great warm up route. 

Libby and I then moved on to trying an F7b "De la Terre au Ciel" on toprope. I got about 3 quarters of the way up then fell off because of pump. I got back on and fell off once again on the crux, a dyno from a crimp to an undercut. I worked that move for a long time, but didn't get it in the end, and since I was spending too long on the route, I dogged up the move and finished it without a problem. 

2nd redpoint attempt, I did worse than I did 1st attempt. Deciding I was too tired, I tried an F6c+. Already quite pumped from De la Terre au Ciel, I fell off on a rockover that required strength. I rested a few minutes to recover, then finished the route. 

After that, I decided to call it a day. 

Rest is needed! 

Photo: Hannah Wuensche

The next day, we returned to Mesa Verde, as quite a few people still had "unfinished business". I was pleased as I could have another go at the F6c+ and the F7b. I was feeling good. the sky was blue, the sun was shining, the weather was nice. Sweet! 

Good weather = sunglasses!

Photo: HannahWuensche

I got back on the F6c+, and did it in one on toprope. I then tried on lead, but freaked out on a big move and didn't finish it. 

I had another go at De la Terre au Ciel, but didn't get any further. Libby got really close to sending it, but didn't catch the undercut properly and slipped off! Guess it wasn't my time yet. Great project though, and I hope next time I'll send it! 

I found an F7a+ called Castle Rock, which seemed doable. The first section was extremely techy with very few holds. This lead up to the crux move. From a tufa to a gaston, then a dyno to a sidepull. I missed out the gaston as I couldn't find a way of holding it, and spanned the move from the tufa straight to the side pull. This took me quite a few attempts, but I got it in the end, and finished the rest of the route feeling quite pumped. Now that I had all the moves sorted, I could have another attempt and try to send it. 

Castle Rock, 7a+.  Photo: Ellie May

Quite shattered from working Castle Rock, I decided to keep my 2nd redpoint for another time, as we were surely returning here.

Fifth day on and we went to Gréolières, known to us as Bernard. A lot of people didn't like the look of it, so returned to Mesa Verde. I stayed here, and got on a some fantastic routes. First of all, an F6a, with great rock, and really fun moves. Then an F7b which was just my style; big moves, big holds. I got this onsight, very first F7b ticked! 

Day 6, we returned to Mesa Verde, but it had rained a lot and the water started seriously seeping. Since the crux of my F7a+ project consisted of a tufa, it made the move impossible. Such a shame, I really wanted to send that. Oh well, next time. I spent the rest of the day belaying, and doing FAs of easy boulders which was fun.

That was the last day for most people, quite emotional really seeing everyone leave...

On my last day, I went to the local crag called La Bagarrée, where I tried lots of F6c's and F7a's. I didn't manage to send many, as they were all wet. Shame, as it would have been the perfect opportunity to get some F7a onsights. 

We headed back home, finished off our packing and left for Nice Airport. It was unbelievably good weather, and I got my last minute tan on!

I arrived home in the evening, feeling good after a great week in France! 

Thank you Peter and Hannah Wuensche for you amazing hospitality in your beautiful house! 

First Post - Introduction

Hi! I'm Alexia Basch, fourteen years old, and climbing is my life. Sounds kinda cheesy, but there's no other way of putting it. I don't think. 

Photo: Hannah Wuensche

I climb at Westway Sports Center, but recently I've been going to other London venues to get a bit of variety. 

Photo: Hannah Wuensche

I've been in the GB bouldering team since December, after coming third in the Winter Youth Open. But I still lead just as much as I boulder, as I think both sports compliment each other. 

Photo: Peter Wuensche

So on this Blog I will post about my climbing holidays, competitions, and general climbing events! 

Upcoming events:

• Climbing trip in Gorges Du Loup

• British Bouldering Championships round 2 (May 5th)