Gorges Du Loup 2013

For these Easter holidays, I returned to Gorges du Loup, located in the South of France. We stayed at a friend's house, which was a half hours' drive from Nice airport.

I was sharing a house with 16 people; luckily I got on with all of them, so it was great company. 

Saturday, I could have a relaxed morning as we had an afternoon flight. 

At Gatwick airport, I met up with 3 of the 16 people with whom I flew. 

Once arrived in Nice, it was drizzling. Not a great sign for the rest of the week. We settled down, and a lovely dinner was awaiting us. We had a nice relaxing first evening. 

The next day, everybody else started to arrive. After a quick bite to eat, we headed straight off to Déversé, although we heard the seepage was bad. 

Once arrived, we checked out all the routes and only three were dry, plus one of the warm up routes.  The dry ones were way out of my grade range, so I went up the F6b+ warm up route. I slipped off because of bad footwork on a sketchy rockover, but I went back on it and with a bit more caution I stuck the move easily.  

The seepage at Déversé

Photo: Ellie May

With nothing to do all day, I went up the ladder leading to upstairs to check out the sick views.

On the ladder!

Photo: Ellie May

Day two was La Turbie, a beautiful crag overlooking the whole of Monico, a part of Italy and a part of France. Despite the difficult walk in, the views were spectacular.

The view of Monaco. Photo: Ellie May

We looked at one of the sectors called Big Ben, which was soaking and virtually unclimbable. The more advanced climbers went to another sector called La Grande Face in search of drier routes. The rest of us stayed here and climbed in Le Gentil, where the grades were more suited to our level. 

I warmed up on an F5c, nice and easy until the crux move; a tiny crimp to a two-finger pocket. I just about stuck the hold, and topped out. Next I moved on to an F6b. The rock was sharp and it dug into my fingers, now numb because of the cold. Nevertheless I carried on until my fingers gave in and I fell off. I took a long rest to bring back the circulation to my fingers, then continued until a hard move that I couldn't figure out. The good holds were hidden and it took me quite a few attempts of working the move to find the crimp, that is then used as an intermediate to bring your feet up and go again to a jug. After many painful attempts, I stuck the jug, and continued to the top of the route. I was happy to finish, as it took me quite a long time, and absolutely massacred my skin. 

I walked back to Big Ben to get some food, and found my good friend Pippa swinging across the roof of the cave! He said it was exhilarating, so I asked if I could try and he said yes! I climbed up an F4+ to get horizontal to the lip, then let go and did a huge swing across the cave, over and above the sea. The feeling was crazy, an absolute once in a lifetime experience! 

The Human Pendulum
Photo: Hannah Wuensche

                                      The Human Pendulum
                                      Photo: Ellie May

A great ending to an otherwise not so great day. 

Which brings us to day three, Mesa Verde! 

This crag was perfect. The grade range suited all of us, and we all ended up with projects. 

We decided to start off on the easiest route of the crag, an F6c. Libby lead up it first, but couldn't see the end, but luckily there was a quickdraw already in the wall about 15 meters up along the route, she she clipped into that and stripped the route. Ellie then did in on toprope, followed by me. The rock was crumbly and unpleasant, not a great warm up route. 

Libby and I then moved on to trying an F7b "De la Terre au Ciel" on toprope. I got about 3 quarters of the way up then fell off because of pump. I got back on and fell off once again on the crux, a dyno from a crimp to an undercut. I worked that move for a long time, but didn't get it in the end, and since I was spending too long on the route, I dogged up the move and finished it without a problem. 

2nd redpoint attempt, I did worse than I did 1st attempt. Deciding I was too tired, I tried an F6c+. Already quite pumped from De la Terre au Ciel, I fell off on a rockover that required strength. I rested a few minutes to recover, then finished the route. 

After that, I decided to call it a day. 

Rest is needed! 

Photo: Hannah Wuensche

The next day, we returned to Mesa Verde, as quite a few people still had "unfinished business". I was pleased as I could have another go at the F6c+ and the F7b. I was feeling good. the sky was blue, the sun was shining, the weather was nice. Sweet! 

Good weather = sunglasses!

Photo: HannahWuensche

I got back on the F6c+, and did it in one on toprope. I then tried on lead, but freaked out on a big move and didn't finish it. 

I had another go at De la Terre au Ciel, but didn't get any further. Libby got really close to sending it, but didn't catch the undercut properly and slipped off! Guess it wasn't my time yet. Great project though, and I hope next time I'll send it! 

I found an F7a+ called Castle Rock, which seemed doable. The first section was extremely techy with very few holds. This lead up to the crux move. From a tufa to a gaston, then a dyno to a sidepull. I missed out the gaston as I couldn't find a way of holding it, and spanned the move from the tufa straight to the side pull. This took me quite a few attempts, but I got it in the end, and finished the rest of the route feeling quite pumped. Now that I had all the moves sorted, I could have another attempt and try to send it. 

Castle Rock, 7a+.  Photo: Ellie May

Quite shattered from working Castle Rock, I decided to keep my 2nd redpoint for another time, as we were surely returning here.

Fifth day on and we went to Gréolières, known to us as Bernard. A lot of people didn't like the look of it, so returned to Mesa Verde. I stayed here, and got on a some fantastic routes. First of all, an F6a, with great rock, and really fun moves. Then an F7b which was just my style; big moves, big holds. I got this onsight, very first F7b ticked! 

Day 6, we returned to Mesa Verde, but it had rained a lot and the water started seriously seeping. Since the crux of my F7a+ project consisted of a tufa, it made the move impossible. Such a shame, I really wanted to send that. Oh well, next time. I spent the rest of the day belaying, and doing FAs of easy boulders which was fun.

That was the last day for most people, quite emotional really seeing everyone leave...

On my last day, I went to the local crag called La Bagarrée, where I tried lots of F6c's and F7a's. I didn't manage to send many, as they were all wet. Shame, as it would have been the perfect opportunity to get some F7a onsights. 

We headed back home, finished off our packing and left for Nice Airport. It was unbelievably good weather, and I got my last minute tan on!

I arrived home in the evening, feeling good after a great week in France! 

Thank you Peter and Hannah Wuensche for you amazing hospitality in your beautiful house!