After an amazing day winning the JBBC's, an achievement I never thought possible, I was so excited for the day ahead: the leading summer youth open. I had no pressure and no nerves, only psyche.
We had a yummy dinner at Nando's and plenty of frozen yoghurt! A good night's sleep later and it was Sunday. For this comp, I just wanted to climb my best and push as hard as I could, my final position didn't matter as leading is not my primary discipline.
The first qualifying route looked good. Steep, juggy, powerful. I got on it and after the first few tricky moves I got into the flow of the climb. The jugs were worse than they looked but still good. I felt smooth but as the wall got steeper my arms got pumped. A good heel hook gave me a rest and secured me a few more moves until my fingers peeled off. Overall happy with how I climbed, I rested for the second qualifier.
It was a static route; small, sharp crimps and a technical sequence. Our demo-er took three rests on it so that was not very encouraging.
I started off sketchy but I stuck the crux and relaxed a bit. I muddled up the sequence which cost me valuable energy and popped off on a cross over. If I hadn't made that mistake I would have got a few extra moves but I wasn't too annoyed because I still got further than I thought I would.
So the results came and miraculously I had qualified for the finals in joint 5th place! I wasn't expecting to, so it was a great surprise!
The final route looked so hard and not at all my style. I climbed tentatively at first and flash pumped trying to clip. the rope kept on slipping out of my hand and as I got it in I only had the energy to throw for a plus point. Watching the other girls try it only three got past me, so that put me in fourth place!
I used to come fourth in EVERYTHING. In YCS, RocFest, BlocFest, Westway Xmas Comp, SIBL... etc.
But for the first time ever I was absolutely over the moon to come fourth. I used to be annoyed at how close it was to the podium, but instead I was overjoyed by how close it was to the podium!!! It was an improvement to the Winter Youth Open where I came 6th, and I never even expected to make finals. So to be that close was an amazing achievement.
Amazing weekend. Improvements in both disciplines and a massive confidence boost. Can't wait for the European Youth Boulder Cup in Laval!
(Sorry there are so photos; I'm writing this in France and the photos are in London, they should be up within the week though)
We had a yummy dinner at Nando's and plenty of frozen yoghurt! A good night's sleep later and it was Sunday. For this comp, I just wanted to climb my best and push as hard as I could, my final position didn't matter as leading is not my primary discipline.
The first qualifying route looked good. Steep, juggy, powerful. I got on it and after the first few tricky moves I got into the flow of the climb. The jugs were worse than they looked but still good. I felt smooth but as the wall got steeper my arms got pumped. A good heel hook gave me a rest and secured me a few more moves until my fingers peeled off. Overall happy with how I climbed, I rested for the second qualifier.
It was a static route; small, sharp crimps and a technical sequence. Our demo-er took three rests on it so that was not very encouraging.
I started off sketchy but I stuck the crux and relaxed a bit. I muddled up the sequence which cost me valuable energy and popped off on a cross over. If I hadn't made that mistake I would have got a few extra moves but I wasn't too annoyed because I still got further than I thought I would.
So the results came and miraculously I had qualified for the finals in joint 5th place! I wasn't expecting to, so it was a great surprise!
The final route looked so hard and not at all my style. I climbed tentatively at first and flash pumped trying to clip. the rope kept on slipping out of my hand and as I got it in I only had the energy to throw for a plus point. Watching the other girls try it only three got past me, so that put me in fourth place!
I used to come fourth in EVERYTHING. In YCS, RocFest, BlocFest, Westway Xmas Comp, SIBL... etc.
But for the first time ever I was absolutely over the moon to come fourth. I used to be annoyed at how close it was to the podium, but instead I was overjoyed by how close it was to the podium!!! It was an improvement to the Winter Youth Open where I came 6th, and I never even expected to make finals. So to be that close was an amazing achievement.
Amazing weekend. Improvements in both disciplines and a massive confidence boost. Can't wait for the European Youth Boulder Cup in Laval!
(Sorry there are so photos; I'm writing this in France and the photos are in London, they should be up within the week though)
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