This weekend has been a physically and emotionally draining one.
I had been stressing about this comp for the preceding weeks, as I thought a 5 day sport climbing trip in France followed by a 3 day Norfolk geography trip would mess up my training and a long rest wouldn't be good right before a comp. Usually I only have a single day. I made the very difficult decision to cancel the sport trip that I had been looking forward to all year in order to train. I don't know if it was worth it, but it definitely shaved off a good deal of stress, which in the past has hindered my ability.
I ended up having a really good time in Norfolk, and did try to get a bit of conditioning training in the mornings. I was then super psyched for the weekend and wasn't worried at all.
My mum and I flew up to Glasgow and arrived in Premier Inn at 11:00 pm. (This was the earliest possible flight, the Norfolk coach came back at 5:30pm). The lack of sleep wasn't ideal, but it had to be dealt with.
The morning of the comp arrived, and I didn't have my usual nerves. I guess I'm getting quite used to competing! I had a good warm up including a sun-salute yoga sequence which I think is a great combination of a pulse raiser, stretch and mobility exercise. I had 8 problems to do in 2 hours, each within 3 attempts. My qualifiers started badly; I decided to get on the problem with the longest queue as everybody was topping it, in order to secure a flash. The holds were very greasy and the last move was so sketchy, but I just about managed to top. This brought back nerves and I remained quite shaky. I had to take time to recover, but the queue had already taken 15 minutes and the clock was ticking.
I once again decided to get on a problem that everybody was topping to get my confidence back. The queue was very long but this gave me the chance to compose myself. I managed another flash quite easily and got psyched again, so I decided to get on a hard problem. I watched some people fall off the crux using a high foot so I planned I would use my own beta of dynoing. It worked, and I continued up the problem expecting to get to the top. I completely forgot my plan made on the floor as I was too excited to have passed the move. Obviously, my body positioning went skew whiff and I tipped off.
Forgetting the tech. Photo- Bibi Basch
I was kicking myself, how could I have been so stupid! I could have easily flashed it, and was very hard on myself for not doing so. All my stress about Norfolk rushed back. Was I weak from the rest? No, I can't keep on using Norfolk as an excuse for everything. I composed myself and got back on the problem, and topped it. I kept concentrated and flashed another 2 problems. I then jumped on a problem with no queue that strong people were falling off before the bonus. I really wanted to get past them and my motivation got me to the last move. It involved an awkward drop knee and too much faffing about trying to figure it out threw me off. I knew it was doable so I rested and got back on. This time I slapped the last hold. I still had 2 problems to try so I left it. One of the 2 looked easy so I got on quite confident. As I got to the crux I prepared myself and went for the hold. I didn't latch it, and completely lost the plot.
I've always looked at people who cry during a comp and thought, "why on earth are they getting so upset, it really doesn't matter". I never thought I would be one of those people. I've always been one to stay positive and never care about winning. At the December comp, my competitiveness came out as for the first time I actually had the goal to win. This time I had the same mindset. Only the pressure had doubled, as the management team was selecting for the European Youth Cup Circuit. I guess all the pressure that had culminated due to stressing about Norfolk and the euro's climaxed. I'm so extremely grateful for everybody who was there to pick me back up and console me. That's the problem with having goals, if you don't reach them you've 'failed'.
This breakdown was in fact completely irrational - I still had two more attempts I knew that I could do the problem. I handed my scorecard back in. With 5 minutes left and a very long queue, was I going to get another go? 1 minute left on the clock and my name was called out! I was so determined and could hear all the encouragements from the mat - that's what got me to the top.
I'm so pleased I was able to get my head back in the game even after a breakdown. I thought for a second I was out of the game. I often see climbers fall off then get really demotivated and give up, even professional climbers in World Cups. I think my coaches have taught me so much about the psychological aspect of climbing that my mind is now "trained", in a way...
Photos:
-Left: Sandy Carr
-Right: Bibi Basch
Photo - Sandy Carr
I made finals in 4th place, and isolation gave me the opportunity to get psyched and learn my French GCSE oral presentation! I must have looked like a right weirdo mumbling random words to nobody...
Our first final problem was a slab; I hadn't really been training slabs as I was focusing more on my strength because that, ironically, was my weakness. I still love slabs though, and I went out to it thinking, "have fun with it dude". I got to the last move on my first go, slightly mucking up my feet near the end. On my 2nd I made the same mistake but on the mats while I was resting I figured it out and got back on feeling ready. I placed my heel on the volume and started to rock over, but my other foot popped and I was off. The time ran out and I had to go back into isolation. One more go and I would have topped it I thought. My time management was not quite right, but this was a learning curve and now I have more experience to learn from. (By the way I did try the problem after the comp and I managed to get it straight away)
I went out to problem two with the mindset to flash it. If I wanted to podium I needed to start topping out. It was powerful, big moves and greasy holds. I completely messed up the sequence the whole way through, but somehow, I managed to flash it. I tried the moves as I intended but they didn't work so I tried them a different way, all in one attempt. This wasted a lot of energy so I was pretty pumped after. I went back into iso and I was so happy with my flash I did a little dance because I couldn't contain my excitement. I thought I was having a really bad day after qualifications but I was now so psyched and ready for problem 3. It was once again very powerful, very dynamic and shouldery. I looked at it and thought, "eh, I can do that". With that it mind at every move, and the cheers getting louder and louder each hold I held, my determination grew until I matched the last hold. I now had a guaranteed podium but I didn't care too much, I was just really happy with my performance in the finals and that all that strength training really paid off for the last 2 problems. Turns out only 1 of the Youth A girls (16-17 yo) managed to flash the last problem and that made me all the more excited.
Photos: Sandy Carr
Hannah Slaney put on an exceptional performance, topping all three problems, and she took gold. I'm very happy with my silver, and even happier that I got selected to compete for the first European Youth Cup in L'argentière France! Psychhhhhhhh! Also I am now winning the Junior British Bouldering Championship series! One step closer to retaining my British Champion title!
The next day was a team training. Needless to say I had no energy left and the problems I had flashed the previous day felt impossible. We had a very useful talk on nutrition that I've always wanted to know more about so that was really cool. Then after a few motivational talks by Tom it was time to head back to London!
This weekend has taught me a lot about myself and how what training you do really affects your performance. My coach Alli has taught me to see mistakes as an improvement opportunity and this tip has definitely helped me this season.
Oh yeah one more thing congratulations to James and Luke who got back on the GB team! They're amazing and deserve it so much yay!
I had been stressing about this comp for the preceding weeks, as I thought a 5 day sport climbing trip in France followed by a 3 day Norfolk geography trip would mess up my training and a long rest wouldn't be good right before a comp. Usually I only have a single day. I made the very difficult decision to cancel the sport trip that I had been looking forward to all year in order to train. I don't know if it was worth it, but it definitely shaved off a good deal of stress, which in the past has hindered my ability.
I ended up having a really good time in Norfolk, and did try to get a bit of conditioning training in the mornings. I was then super psyched for the weekend and wasn't worried at all.
My mum and I flew up to Glasgow and arrived in Premier Inn at 11:00 pm. (This was the earliest possible flight, the Norfolk coach came back at 5:30pm). The lack of sleep wasn't ideal, but it had to be dealt with.
The morning of the comp arrived, and I didn't have my usual nerves. I guess I'm getting quite used to competing! I had a good warm up including a sun-salute yoga sequence which I think is a great combination of a pulse raiser, stretch and mobility exercise. I had 8 problems to do in 2 hours, each within 3 attempts. My qualifiers started badly; I decided to get on the problem with the longest queue as everybody was topping it, in order to secure a flash. The holds were very greasy and the last move was so sketchy, but I just about managed to top. This brought back nerves and I remained quite shaky. I had to take time to recover, but the queue had already taken 15 minutes and the clock was ticking.
I once again decided to get on a problem that everybody was topping to get my confidence back. The queue was very long but this gave me the chance to compose myself. I managed another flash quite easily and got psyched again, so I decided to get on a hard problem. I watched some people fall off the crux using a high foot so I planned I would use my own beta of dynoing. It worked, and I continued up the problem expecting to get to the top. I completely forgot my plan made on the floor as I was too excited to have passed the move. Obviously, my body positioning went skew whiff and I tipped off.
Forgetting the tech. Photo- Bibi BaschI was kicking myself, how could I have been so stupid! I could have easily flashed it, and was very hard on myself for not doing so. All my stress about Norfolk rushed back. Was I weak from the rest? No, I can't keep on using Norfolk as an excuse for everything. I composed myself and got back on the problem, and topped it. I kept concentrated and flashed another 2 problems. I then jumped on a problem with no queue that strong people were falling off before the bonus. I really wanted to get past them and my motivation got me to the last move. It involved an awkward drop knee and too much faffing about trying to figure it out threw me off. I knew it was doable so I rested and got back on. This time I slapped the last hold. I still had 2 problems to try so I left it. One of the 2 looked easy so I got on quite confident. As I got to the crux I prepared myself and went for the hold. I didn't latch it, and completely lost the plot.
I've always looked at people who cry during a comp and thought, "why on earth are they getting so upset, it really doesn't matter". I never thought I would be one of those people. I've always been one to stay positive and never care about winning. At the December comp, my competitiveness came out as for the first time I actually had the goal to win. This time I had the same mindset. Only the pressure had doubled, as the management team was selecting for the European Youth Cup Circuit. I guess all the pressure that had culminated due to stressing about Norfolk and the euro's climaxed. I'm so extremely grateful for everybody who was there to pick me back up and console me. That's the problem with having goals, if you don't reach them you've 'failed'.
This breakdown was in fact completely irrational - I still had two more attempts I knew that I could do the problem. I handed my scorecard back in. With 5 minutes left and a very long queue, was I going to get another go? 1 minute left on the clock and my name was called out! I was so determined and could hear all the encouragements from the mat - that's what got me to the top.
I'm so pleased I was able to get my head back in the game even after a breakdown. I thought for a second I was out of the game. I often see climbers fall off then get really demotivated and give up, even professional climbers in World Cups. I think my coaches have taught me so much about the psychological aspect of climbing that my mind is now "trained", in a way...
Photos:
-Left: Sandy Carr
-Right: Bibi Basch
Photo - Sandy Carr
I made finals in 4th place, and isolation gave me the opportunity to get psyched and learn my French GCSE oral presentation! I must have looked like a right weirdo mumbling random words to nobody...
Our first final problem was a slab; I hadn't really been training slabs as I was focusing more on my strength because that, ironically, was my weakness. I still love slabs though, and I went out to it thinking, "have fun with it dude". I got to the last move on my first go, slightly mucking up my feet near the end. On my 2nd I made the same mistake but on the mats while I was resting I figured it out and got back on feeling ready. I placed my heel on the volume and started to rock over, but my other foot popped and I was off. The time ran out and I had to go back into isolation. One more go and I would have topped it I thought. My time management was not quite right, but this was a learning curve and now I have more experience to learn from. (By the way I did try the problem after the comp and I managed to get it straight away)
I went out to problem two with the mindset to flash it. If I wanted to podium I needed to start topping out. It was powerful, big moves and greasy holds. I completely messed up the sequence the whole way through, but somehow, I managed to flash it. I tried the moves as I intended but they didn't work so I tried them a different way, all in one attempt. This wasted a lot of energy so I was pretty pumped after. I went back into iso and I was so happy with my flash I did a little dance because I couldn't contain my excitement. I thought I was having a really bad day after qualifications but I was now so psyched and ready for problem 3. It was once again very powerful, very dynamic and shouldery. I looked at it and thought, "eh, I can do that". With that it mind at every move, and the cheers getting louder and louder each hold I held, my determination grew until I matched the last hold. I now had a guaranteed podium but I didn't care too much, I was just really happy with my performance in the finals and that all that strength training really paid off for the last 2 problems. Turns out only 1 of the Youth A girls (16-17 yo) managed to flash the last problem and that made me all the more excited.
Photos: Sandy Carr
Hannah Slaney put on an exceptional performance, topping all three problems, and she took gold. I'm very happy with my silver, and even happier that I got selected to compete for the first European Youth Cup in L'argentière France! Psychhhhhhhh! Also I am now winning the Junior British Bouldering Championship series! One step closer to retaining my British Champion title!
The next day was a team training. Needless to say I had no energy left and the problems I had flashed the previous day felt impossible. We had a very useful talk on nutrition that I've always wanted to know more about so that was really cool. Then after a few motivational talks by Tom it was time to head back to London!
This weekend has taught me a lot about myself and how what training you do really affects your performance. My coach Alli has taught me to see mistakes as an improvement opportunity and this tip has definitely helped me this season.
Oh yeah one more thing congratulations to James and Luke who got back on the GB team! They're amazing and deserve it so much yay!
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