Not the outcome I had anticipated (JBBC's r3)

I returned from France with Sid and Tara, and we went to Camden on Saturday. We were joined by Gracie and Rachel and had a nice rest day. We returned to my house and had a pre-comp BBQ. After coming back from France with a mediocre result, I really wanted to prove myself at the British Bouldering Championships. I was leading the series but only by 9 points apparently so all could change.

The competition was held in London at my favourite wall, The Biscuit Factory. I was super psyched about this as it meant I would be waking up in my own bed the morning of the comp and climbing on  a wall that I'm familiar with. The tube journey there was slightly hectic but we managed it in the end although we did end up taking a taxi. This made us quite late so I had to warm up in the taxi. Not exactly ideal. We finally got to the wall and registration had closed but we sorted things out and I could eventually get climbing! My warm up was rushed and stressful and I was really nervous.

The format was 8 problems, 3 attempts, 2.5 hours. This much time meant I could have lots of rest between problems, something that was lacking in the EYC as we had half the time with twice as many people. The good thing about doing badly in a comp is that you can learn from your mistakes. The main mistake I made in France was trying the easy problems first. If I had tried the harder, more pumpy problems first I could have probably ticked them. I tried doing that technique at this comp, and it worked. I topped all eight problems, and qualified in joint first. I even managed a problem only one other person did, which massively boosted my confidence.

After a shaky start I had managed it and felt super psyched going into finals. I would go out to climb last, which meant I would know how the other girls did and what I needed to do to win. (although you can't see them climb you can tell by the cheers, and the awwww's. You can also ask when they come back into isolation)

When we went out to view our problems I don't know why but I had a nervous laughing fit. The first problem was a dyno (which I am awful at), and I thought it looked impossible. The second was a big cave problem with big volumes. This one looked like the hardest one with and awkward sequence and a massive lock off (which again, I am awful at). The third was more straightforward; a simple powerful bloc on a slightly overhanging wall.

One after the other the first five girls went out to try bloc n1. 3 out of 5 flashed it, so I knew I had to as well to stay on top. The dyno was actually easy and I topped it without a problem. Again, 3 out of 5 girls flashed problem 2. Maybe it wasn't as hard as it looked. I tried it and it was nails! The lock off was even bigger than it seemed and the hold even worse! I failed the lock off but remained on the wall as I knew I had to get it first attempt to stay with the front runners. I attempted to move again but I was so pumped and confused I was spat off. Oh dear this was not looking good. I tried to calculate how I could still win overall but it seemed impossible. I was angry at myself more than anything. I really wanted to retain my title of British Champion but now I couldn't. I went back into isolation completely distraught.

Sticking the dyno. Credit Sandy Carr

After hearing the cheers and understanding that 4 girls had topped the last bloc, I knew that I would be 4th regardless of whether I topped it or not. Jim said "who cares just flash it anyway". I tried to do so, but the holds were incredibly greasy and my lack of motivation threw me off. I wasn't really bothered about dropping this as it wouldn't change my result.

It was time to announce the overall podiums for the series. I was glad to come 3rd and make the podium, although the feeling does't quite equal that of standing on top last year in Leeds. Becky managed to take the title of British Champion, and I couldn't have been happier that it was her. We've been training together for so long, one never being blatantly better than the other. Last year was my year, and this year was hers. As long as one of us stays on top that's all I can wish for!

I looked at the points separating us and it was only 1. 1 point between first and third, and half a point between first and second. Although I didn't get the official title with the plate, I know that I'm of the same standard ads the Champion, which is alright :)

 Videos of me on my final problems:

F1:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDiW008cmSw


F2 (excuse my mum's shocking filming): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaBsY8eWD24

F3: (excuse my mum's swearing at the end, she did 't realise the top wouldn't have made a difference) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jhg02A1xwHg

The start of the season

L'Argentière 2014 marked the beginning of the european youth bouldering season. Although we were there for a serious competition that didn't stop us messing around in water fights, playing intense games of jungle speed and roasting marshmallows at a BBQ. We were a team of 12 attending the event and we gathered at Stansted Airport to begin our journey. We arrived in Lyon to the rain, which was slightly worrying seeing as the comp was on an outdoor wall. After a stormy drive through the Alps we arrived in the chalet in which we were staying. It was amazing; from the Alpine decor to the bar and dart board, the beautiful finish made the stay all the more enjoyable.

The first day was spent wandering around and ended with some team talks, which were a reminder that we were here to compete, as it felt like a holiday! Tuesday rolled around and I woke up early to get to the wall on time to warm up. The weather was nice, the problems looked good and I was psyched to climb. The youth A girls were kind enough to sacrifice 2 hours of sleep to come and support which was much appreciated!

I had 8 problems, 5 attempts on each and 1 hour and a half to top as many as possible in the fewest attempts. It was strange being alone on the mats as I was the only youth B competitor but the team was with me supporting. I started my qualification round feeling quite shaky but I managed 4 flashes so calmed down a bit. I decided to try the dyno. First attempt, I nearly caught it. I actually surprised myself as it was quite far and I'm rubbish at dynos. I used all my attempts together to keep the muscle memory of the movement. The technique worked as on my fifth and last attempt I stuck it! I moved to the bonus and pulled to the next hold. I fell off but I knew the move was possible and could have been done if I had had the opportunity to work it. Just need to get better at flashing dynos! 

One of the problems was being topped by about half of the girls. If I wanted to get a good result I had to start topping things that others weren't. I got on it expecting it to be easy but it was incredibly hard! I fell off the crux a bit distraught by the difficulty. I kind of wasted my attempts by going on the problem when I wasn't ready as I was rushed, and made silly sequence mistakes which turned out to be very costly. On my last attempt I got past the crux but I was so pumped the last move threw me off. At that point I knew that I had no chance of making finals so I had switch my focus to performance rather than result. I didn't top any more problems, but managed to get 7 bonuses, which is better than 20 of the girls. However my 4 tops meant that I only beat 9, and tops are counted before bonuses so my final result was 17th. 

Last year in Laval I came 7th and everybody (including me) had big hopes of me getting into the final seeing as this year I had the advantage of being in the older half of the category. Of course I was disappointed to go down 10 places even with my age advantage, but I was reminded by the team that I climbed well, just didn't get enough tops. However there is still another euro cup and more importantly the euro champs coming up, so I'll train hard for those and hope to improve my result.

It was nice to spend the rest of the day chilling in the sun supporting the team members in the other categories. Everybody did so well and Hamish made finals!! Seeing him compete in the finals the next day was actually inspirational as he stayed so calm throughout. His brilliant efforts put him in 3rd place! A British podium at the first international yesss!

We had an extra day which was spent being loud in a swimming pool and watching Nath at the international tout-à-bloc comp. It was such a fun trip and I really enjoyed it! Thank you so much to the chaperones who kindly taxied us everywhere, Rachel for her words of wisdom before and after the comp, the whole team for being incredibly loud and supportive and Clive for organising the trip.

The only photo I have from the comp… Team GB and CAC hero John Ellison