Lead Winter Youth Open

It's a bit belated but I finally got round to writing this. 

The day after the bouldering event, it was the lead event, held at the Foundry. It was extremely crowded and walking round the center was a real mission! I didn't have a great warm up and was getting tired really easily. It didn't help that the bouldering the day before was really tiring. It is a format one has to get used to, having two comps in one weekend but it does save a lot of money and traveling so I can't complain. It was freezing and I felt as if my fingers were about to fall off. Nevertheless, my time came to climb my first qualifying route. It was nice and juggy and after a bit of messing about at the top I stuck the crux and managed a top. 7 others topped it but 8 went through to the final so I was in with a chance. My 2nd route didn't go as planned. It was full of tufas and volumes, surprisingly. I didn't get past the crux but only 5 people did so I made the finals! I was so happy because I hadn't been leading my best recently as I had been focusing on bouldering for the team selection. 

On the first route, photos Peter Wuensche 

I was really stressing out in isolation I don't exactly know why. I knew I wouldn't make the lead team so I wasn't worrying about that, but lead comps just make me panic. The fact that I might slip off the first move then I won't have a chance to get back on makes me really nervous. During observation we found out our final routes; my category got one of the boys' qualifiers, a long pumpy route on the steep main wall, so I gathered the beta and could even ask a few of the boys who had done this route for tips. This slightly ruined the 'onsight' aspect of the final since we had seen people climb this all day, so being in observation was rendered useless. Just before going out I got some wise words of encouragement from boulder team manager Tom Greenall telling me to focus on everything that could go right, instead of panicking on what could go wrong. With these thoughts in my head I stepped up to the wall and started the route. It was easier than I thought and the only thing hindering me was pump and scare. I got quite high up but then realised I hadn't clipped. I got a heel hook in and reached for the rope but I panicked my heel would slip and my arms gave in. I swang off really happy with how I had climbed. Phil Waterhouse gave me his usual "not bad for a boulderer" when lowering me down. My efforts put me into 8th place. I can't complain; not the best result but I gave the route my all so I'm very pleased.

Final route, photo Peter Wuensche

Final route, photo Nick Pope

As expected I didn't make the lead team but I kept my place on the bouldering team although I'm no longer the baby of the family :( The team training is pretty soon, beginning of February. We will tragically miss Rocfest but I'm psyched to see the new team and everyone!