CWIF 2014 and stanage

I couldn't go to CWIF last year because I was skiing, so this year was the first time I could finally compete. I was in team psych with Pete, Ed and James. We had the afternoon session so I took advantage of this by snooping around looking for beta in the morning. I was shocked by how many international people there were! 

30 problems, 3 and a half hours. About 28 were technical and 2 burly ones. I was really pleased about this, firstly because for once the strong-but-no-technique people would be caught out, and secondly because it gave a chance for the weaklings (me) to do well. There were no easy problems; the easi-EST problems all had one or two difficult moves that could throw somebody off. So basically, there no guaranteed points. This made it difficult to plan strategies such as making the transition between warm up and competition, and I definitely underestimated the grade of a few of them. The meat coking grading (rare, medium, and well done) was not much help.... Despite all of this, the problems were amazingly set, really weird and fun and different to anything I'd ever climbed. It felt like the setters put a lot of effort into setting them, as the moves were thought out, technical and precise. 

I managed to flash about 8, then get a few second and third attempt. My final score was 112, and the semi final score was around 150. So not too far off. I came 32nd, and 20 made the semis finals. Not too bad considering I was competing against adults from around the world! 

I had a good dinner with the farmers (plus Hannah) at Wagamama although I don't understand the obsession with the chicken katsu curry.... 

On Sunday morning I went to stanage with the farmers and Luke, really inspired by Alex's retro flash of Brad Pitt! We didn't get so lucky... Not much was done at all, as it was excruciatingly windy and cold. 

We returned to Sheffield, and I headed off back to the Works in a taxi. The driver gave my mum and me a lecture on how amazing Sheffield was, then continued to say how much he hated London! He named just about every cost of living in London, then every benefit of living in Sheffield. It's strange how I have polar opposite views of what he said! 

The following weekend, I headed back to Sheffield, this time for the boulder team training. I enjoyed a luxurious train ride in first class with free wifi and tea! Win! I arrived an hour late so I missed the initial talk but apparently it was exactly the same as last year so I wasn't too worried. We received our new kit, took our team photos and filled out a questionnaire, before heading to the works for  some climbing! We did this circuit thing, where we had 3 rounds of 4 problems. We had 10 minutes on each problem then a rest between the rounds. I managed to top all of the problems but one, which I was very pleased about. In the afternoon we did loads of different mobility exercises as well as various stretches - super psyched to start doing these! 

The next day we went to stanage. I heard it was going to be cold and windy but it was actually quite mild and no where near as windy as the previous week! I was keen to get back on green traverse, and a few other projects. The grit had good friction and it wasn't unbearably cold! I didn't get green traverse but I managed a 2nd attempt send on a solid 6c. Good effort to Pete for sending Brad Pitt (7c) even though the crux hold was sopping wet! And also Hamish with Snatch (8a)!! Crushing! 

Deliverarete, 6a+ 

Although I didn't get much done (once again!), it was great to spend a day out with the team on rock and get some more experience on gritstone!  

#gbjuniorboulderingteam 

All photos courtesy of Phil Waterhouse.

2014 Innaugrial meeting

By the end of 2013 I had gotten onto the British team, become British boulering champion, and came 7th in a European Youth Cup. This year I hope to make a European final, get a top 10 World ranking (I was 18th last year because I only went to one EYC) and go on a Haggis Hunt. I think they are all possible.

2014 kicked off with the innaugrial team meet, which was held in Sheffield at a really big fancy hotel. It was so nice to catch up with all the team and have a laugh with flappy bird. Tom Greenall presented most of the speeches, and it was awesome to be reminded of how well the boulder team did last year. After a bit of celebrating the past, the topic quickly shifted to the future. Some more talks were presented about how to be a good athlete and what was expected from a team member. Afterwards we did a bit of team building in the (extremely muddy) gardens, followed by medicals and the psychological test. We could then go to the climbing works and finally start climbing! We did these cool games such as doing a boulder blindfolded/fig-fouring every move/power screaming every move/without hands... amongst others. Thanks Rachel it was so much fun! The rest of the day was spent climbing the amazing problems that are so different to the Westway set.

Sunday saw us go to the gym and do some tough circuits as well as our FMS tests. We did so many squats my quadriceps were aching so much the next day it hurt to walk. After lunch we went back to the Works and were put in teams of two to create problems for the other teams. I was paired up with Tom and we made a long slabby traverse into some powerful end moves. Only about 2 or 3 of the team managed to top it! The rest of the day was spent bonding with the new team.  I worked on attempt efficiency in particular, and I am quite proud to say that I did manage to burn off some of the strong boys on a couple problems :)

2014 is going to be a good year and I can't wait for comp season! 

Photo: most of team GB 

Lead Winter Youth Open

It's a bit belated but I finally got round to writing this. 

The day after the bouldering event, it was the lead event, held at the Foundry. It was extremely crowded and walking round the center was a real mission! I didn't have a great warm up and was getting tired really easily. It didn't help that the bouldering the day before was really tiring. It is a format one has to get used to, having two comps in one weekend but it does save a lot of money and traveling so I can't complain. It was freezing and I felt as if my fingers were about to fall off. Nevertheless, my time came to climb my first qualifying route. It was nice and juggy and after a bit of messing about at the top I stuck the crux and managed a top. 7 others topped it but 8 went through to the final so I was in with a chance. My 2nd route didn't go as planned. It was full of tufas and volumes, surprisingly. I didn't get past the crux but only 5 people did so I made the finals! I was so happy because I hadn't been leading my best recently as I had been focusing on bouldering for the team selection. 

On the first route, photos Peter Wuensche 

I was really stressing out in isolation I don't exactly know why. I knew I wouldn't make the lead team so I wasn't worrying about that, but lead comps just make me panic. The fact that I might slip off the first move then I won't have a chance to get back on makes me really nervous. During observation we found out our final routes; my category got one of the boys' qualifiers, a long pumpy route on the steep main wall, so I gathered the beta and could even ask a few of the boys who had done this route for tips. This slightly ruined the 'onsight' aspect of the final since we had seen people climb this all day, so being in observation was rendered useless. Just before going out I got some wise words of encouragement from boulder team manager Tom Greenall telling me to focus on everything that could go right, instead of panicking on what could go wrong. With these thoughts in my head I stepped up to the wall and started the route. It was easier than I thought and the only thing hindering me was pump and scare. I got quite high up but then realised I hadn't clipped. I got a heel hook in and reached for the rope but I panicked my heel would slip and my arms gave in. I swang off really happy with how I had climbed. Phil Waterhouse gave me his usual "not bad for a boulderer" when lowering me down. My efforts put me into 8th place. I can't complain; not the best result but I gave the route my all so I'm very pleased.

Final route, photo Peter Wuensche

Final route, photo Nick Pope

As expected I didn't make the lead team but I kept my place on the bouldering team although I'm no longer the baby of the family :( The team training is pretty soon, beginning of February. We will tragically miss Rocfest but I'm psyched to see the new team and everyone! 

Boulder winter youth open 2014

This year has been incredible; getting on the team, meeting new people, going to a European, some experiences I never thought possible. This weekend would determine if I could re live that all over again! And I wanted it so much. 

 The 7th and 8th of Demeber saw the return of the bouldering and leading weekend. The bouldering was to be on Saturday, much to my delight. 

I travelled up with Hannah and her dad, and after a slightly chaotic journey to say the least, we somehow managed to arrive at Jury's inn. I was pleasently surprised to find an ice dispenser as I have a small obsession with ice cubes.

Saturday morning I got up before Hannah as Youth B start earlier. I arrived at the works and checked out the problems. We had 8 to do in 2 hours and a half. As expected, they looked so good, and really funky as well. 

After a bit of socialising, route reading, and warming up we got started. I stepped onto the mats feeling slightly more nervous than usual. There was a lot at stake; this could be the last time I wear the GB kit. I tried to forget everything and focus on one thing: crush. 

I felt my warm up was really thorough so I didn't need to queue for the easiest one as my first problem. I jumped on a few medium-grade ones and bagged a few flashes. Moving on to slightly harder ones, I managed to dispatch a dynamic/campusy bloc, but dropped the slab. I decided to have a break as we still had about an hour and half left. Feeling fresh again, I went on to try the hardest problem, which was shared with the boys so the queue was gradually increasing. After a lot of faffing about I got my act together and secured the bonus, but the last move proved to be challenging. I knew it was doable, so I got back on soon after. I couldn't figure out that last move, so I chose to save my last attempt for later. I went back to the slab and it felt so much easier this time, knowing the right beta. I managed to top it and I was so happy! Only one left now!

Half an hour left and that queue was getting really long. I put my scorecard in and had time to cool down, rest, and re warm up again. Stepping on the bloc I felt so strong and confident that I would top this. Falling off was not even an option. When it came to the last move I positioned my feet, pounced and caught the hold! That was when I realised something - if I had doubted my ability and thought I might fall off, I wouldn't have gotten the problem. But since I knew I could, I did. Simple as. 

             - photo Peter Wuensche

            - photo Nick Pope

I had finished qualifications with 8 tops in 11 attempts, making finals in 2nd just behind Catrin, who secured 8 tops in 10 attempts. Effort to her who isn't even a boulderer :) 

So off to isolation we went. 

The finals were to be in 4+ format. So 4 minutes to do the problem but if we are still on the problem when the clock runs down we can continue. The warm up area was satisfactory so I felt strong when going out for my first problem. Looking at it, I thought I could do it. However, the holds were in fact slopers which amplified the difficulty. The move which had thrown off the other competitors was proving to be challenging - a pop to a sloper which you had to stick but I kept cutting loose and swinging off. I wasn't getting pumped so I could pile on attempts to figure out the move. At 30 seconds I jumped on, stuck the move, slipped in my heel, but it popped and I came down. I had time for one last attempt. I couldn't latch the sloper and I swung off. Nobody managed to top it. I got the bonus first attempt, so I was relatively pleased. 

           - Photo Peter Wuensche

              Swing! Photo - Sandy Carr

The second problem was techy and pumpy. Going for the wrong hold on my first attempt threw me off but I corrected this in my 2nd and achieved the top. I didn't know this yet, but if I had flashed this I would have won. 

                 Me and Tommy on bloc 2 , photo Peter Wuensche

Third problem was perfect. Balancey, volumey, slaby. I was happy to get this first attempt even though the last move saw me barn door like mad! Not proud of that but pleased to achieve the top.

My efforts put me into 2nd place. I am of course delighted with this position, but for the first time ever, I was disappointed not to have won. It was so close. Separated by one attempt. If I had just known the avoid the undercut. But that's just the way the cookie crumbles and if somebody had to beat me I'm over the moon it was fellow Westway climber Becky Whaley. She made the team, a dream of hers since a long time. I also made the team and I'm soooo psyched for 2014! Gonna be a sick year :D 

           Interesting face on the podium.. Photo - Nick Pope 

I'll post up another blog for the lead event the next day sometime soon :) 

My First EYC (Laval)

Sunday 12th of October marked the date of my first ever EYC.

On the Thursday before, Molly, Alex and I travelled up to Manchester airport where we met the rest of the team. We then flew to Paris Charles de Gaulle and waited (a rather long time) for the rental cars. We finally set off and I was lucky enough to be in the spacious car, along with Jen and Tara. After finally escaping the horrendous Parisian traffic we stopped at a service station and had dinner. This gave people an opportunity to practise their French. We then headed back in the cars, and drove to Laval. The journey took over 4 hours, but with the many games of Candy Crush, time flew by.

We arrived at the hotel at about 11 pm absolutely shattered. Thank goodness none of us had to climb the day after. We organized the rooms and went straight to bed.

Friday saw us visiting the town. First stop was the chocolate shop. I had to help Pete a little bit though... But we finally managed to buy the chocolates and continued our little tour. The town was very old and the roads very steep and winding. A massive difference compared to London! Afterwards we had the technical meeting and the opening ceremony. It was so cool to see Nathan hold up the British flag alongside the other nations. I felt a little sorry for him though, because he had to stand on the stage for about 20 minutes while all the speeches we said (in French).

So Saturday finally rolled around. When we arrived at the arena, we were mind blown. Four blocs were built on the stage of a colossal auditorium. The psyche levels were rising...

We watched the Junior and Youth A girls crush these sick problems, and then the Youth A boys. Hamish had to pull out because of his back about half and hour in. He finished 8th, and it goes without saying he would have probably made the finals if it weren't for his injury.

The last category of the day was the Junior boys. Everybody was psyched for this, as Nathan had good chances of making finals. After cranking, the results came and he qualified in 5th place! The Youth B category was climbing the next day so we went to a restaurant to get a proper meal. After many conversations about haggis we headed back to the arena to watch Nathan in the final. He absolutely crushed, making the team so proud. We watched the last few climbers of his category together, already celebrating that he had come 2nd. But then the shocker of the night, the Italian guy who had supposedly won couldn't top the last problem, which meant Nathan had won!!!! It was the best moment of the entire weekend, even if the Italian team now hate us.

I was so psyched to climb now.

Sunday arrived and Sid, Michelle, Claire and I were up bright and early to go to the center. We climbed in a different place to the other categories, which was strange and slightly disappointing. But this place looked sick too and I was too psyched to care.

After a really good warm up Sid and I started our problems. I got on a bloc which looked like it would suit me perfectly. A pressy/bridgy start into a big rockover. I completely misinterpreted it, as it turned out to be a dyno. I had 2 gos on it then considered it as time wasting. I then flashed 3 problems, including one that had thrown off a few Italians. Now really confident, I moved on a pink one. It consisted of basically two massive core holds, and you had to press to the top. I held the hold wrong on my first attempt and dropped it. I consulted Claire about it and she gave me the beta. I then got it 2nd attempt. The next problem I tried was a weird volumy one. After seeing the French try it with some crazy heel hook beta I decided I would do it the normal way. It worked, and I achieved another flash. Next I tried something a bit more burly. A white problem with big throwy moves. Quite confident I could top it, I tried it. I didn't latch the hold of the first move and came off. This happened four times. I left it and went to the slab. I had 5 minutes left and queue was so long. My turn came and the clock showed one minute left. It's fine, I thought, if I'm on the wall I've got all the time I need. So I got on and wrong footed myself. This resulted in an awkward swap feet and I slipped off the first hold. That was absolutely gutting, because I knew I could have gotten the problem. I had one last try on the whites but didn't get any further. So my final result was 5 tops in 6 attempts, putting me into 7th place! I was soooo happy with this result, and even though I was one top from the final, I don't think I am ready to climb in and international final quite yet. And anyway, I am still in Youth B next year!

               

   The last category of the weekend was the Youth B boys. We shared a few problems, but the setters had made them a lot harder. All of the team climbed so well; Will and Pete even made finals! Watching them in the finals later on was amazing, it was so good to see them both enjoy themselves and smile throughout. The other competitors were all so serious about winning and got terribly demoralised when they fell off. In the end our team's good spirits (and Pete's crowd raiser) payed off: Pete came 5th and Will came third! The best ending possible to the weekend!

  That evening we had a mini party with cake celebrating Nathan's victory and thanking him for being team captain for an amazing year. I was introduced to the crazy game of jungle speed which I am so buying.

  It was such an awesome event. Bouldering in an EYC is completely different to british comps. European style suits me so well, I loved climbing on it so much! being alongside the continent's best boulderers is a weird and wonderful experience. Seeing their countries on their vests, and best of all climbing with my country on my vest is exhilarating. 

  I would also like to say thank you to the team for cheering so loudly because it helps so much knowing that you've got massive support. We achieved our goal of being the loudest team by far, and the commentator loves us for it :) And I think Ed, James and Pete have enriched French vocab now!

Next blog will be about Winer Youth Open and 2014 Team Selection! 

Thanks Molly Thompson-Smith and Sandy Carr for photos! 

BLCC's 2013

I was unsure whether or not I should compete in this comp, as it a leading one. But in the end I decided I wanted to see where I ranked nationally, and if I could improve on my last year's 9th place. 

The competition was held in the new Awesome Walls Sheffield, which hadn't even officially opened yet.  I warmed up and the holds were so new that they scratched my hands. At least they were grippy!  

I got on my first route and was extremely sketchy on the last few moves but managed to top it. This put me into joint 1st place but unfortunately my success didn't last very long as I dropped down to 7th place after my second quali. The move was an awkward crossover but I decided to match and lank instead. Big mistake though, as my hand popped off reaching for the hold. 

I wasn't too bothered but coming 7th is pretty gutting because it's missing out on the finals by 1 spot. Oh well at least I improved on last year! 

Next was the speed event. I also competed in this last year and came 6th. It was all for fun but in the end I some how managed to come 2nd! So that was awesome! And the EYC was in 1 week... Psyched! 

Things are looking up (BMCyo)

After an amazing day winning the JBBC's, an achievement I never thought possible, I was so excited for the day ahead: the leading summer youth open. I had no pressure and no nerves, only psyche.

We had a yummy dinner at Nando's and plenty of frozen yoghurt! A good night's sleep later and it was Sunday. For this comp, I just wanted to climb my best and push as hard as I could, my final position didn't matter as leading is not my primary discipline.

The first qualifying route looked good. Steep, juggy, powerful. I got on it and after the first few tricky moves I got into the flow of the climb. The jugs were worse than they looked but still good. I felt smooth but as the wall got steeper my arms got pumped. A good heel hook gave me a rest and secured me a few more moves until my fingers peeled off. Overall happy with how I climbed, I rested for the second qualifier.

It was a static route; small, sharp crimps and a technical sequence. Our demo-er took three rests on it so that was not very encouraging.

I started off sketchy but I stuck the crux and relaxed a bit. I muddled up the sequence which cost me valuable energy and popped off on a cross over. If I hadn't made that mistake I would have got a few extra moves but I wasn't too annoyed because I still got further than I thought I would.

So the results came and miraculously I had qualified for the finals in joint 5th place! I wasn't expecting to, so it was a great surprise!

The final route looked so hard and not at all my style. I climbed tentatively at first and flash pumped trying to clip. the rope kept on slipping out of my hand and as I got it in I only had the energy to throw for a plus point. Watching the other girls try it only three got past me, so that put me in fourth place!

I used to come fourth in EVERYTHING. In YCS, RocFest, BlocFest, Westway Xmas Comp, SIBL... etc.

But for the first time ever I was absolutely over the moon to come fourth. I used to be annoyed at how close it was to the podium, but instead I was overjoyed by how close it was to the podium!!! It was an improvement to the Winter Youth Open where I came 6th, and I never even expected to make finals. So to be that close was an amazing achievement.

Amazing weekend. Improvements in both disciplines and  a massive confidence boost. Can't wait for the European Youth Boulder Cup in Laval!


(Sorry there are so photos; I'm writing this in France and the photos are in London, they should be up within the week though)