Training/ambitions (update)

I haven't posted in a while so I thought I would update a bit on my training, hopes, ambitions and goals for the future, something I haven't talked about yet. 

So lets begin with my training. 

I have been lucky in the sense that I have never been severely injured. My wrist was slightly sore for a few months and hindered me on certain moves such as presses and mantles, but the pain has vanished and my hands are strong again. My back tweaked slightly a few weeks ago. I took it easy, climbed static routes, consulted a sports physio, and everything is back to normal again! 

I have been trying the train more on overhanging boulders, as that's one of my weak points. I'm not seeing significant improvements so far, but training hard will bring that! I don't get frustrated if I don't finish a boulder, I see it as a new project to work towards, and the feeling of sending a project is so much more satisfying than that of flashing one. 

One domain where I can see improvement is slabs. I've always been a fan of slabs and verticals, balancey moves, minuscule holds, big slopey volumes, the lot! I was having a slab session the other day and was sending every single one of my projects, one after the other as if I was warming up. I am so pleased, I can now focus on other sections of the wall!  

Moving on to my hopes, goals, and ambitions.

2012. I spent the whole year training for one thing. Team GB. My climbing lifetime goal has always been making the British team, and when the team trials came, all my training , all my hard work, blood and sweat (literally!), was put to the test. Climbing and competing against the best of the country was amazing, but the best part was finding out that I ended up being one of the best in the country. I had been selected, everything had paid off, it was the happiest moment of my life. 

But there was one problem. Now that my lifetime goal was completed,  what was I training for? 

Of course there are the short term hopes, making finals in a comp, podiuming .. etc and then there are the long term ones...

 Seeing a few members of the GB bouldering team compete (And crush!!!) in Switzerland for their first EYC was so inspirational. It set me a new goal, something to work for, which is always a great motivation. 

So there it is. International competition. Ambition for 2013/14. 

Till next time!! 

Next posts:  

Summer Youth Open, lead, Leeds. 

Summer Youth Open, boulder, Leeds (BBC round 3 and recap on the series) 

-  end of July

Scottish Youth Bouldering Champs 2013

Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships (British Bouldering Championships round 2)

On Friday 3rd of May 2013, I travelled up to Glasgow on a five hour train journey that passed surprisingly quickly. Once arrived, we went to our trusty Premier Inn, and as always, had a very good night's sleep. Registration for the competition was at 11:00, so we got a lie in. 

The next day, I was feeling very psyched. I fuelled up with some bacon, then headed off to TCA. 

Before the comp Tom Greenall gave the team a little pep talk in preparation to the comp.

Feeling a little less nervous, I started warming up. I then moved on to my easy problems, then looked through the harder ones. I got on my first hard one, a techy problem with poor holds. I was a little apprehensive about the crux move, a cross over dyno, as this was not my strong point. With a lot of commitment my fingers stuck the hold, and I continued to top out. A lot of stress now removed, I flashed another difficult problem, in a cave. I was happy that all that cave training had come in handy! This left me with two more hard problems, and two easy ones. 

I tried a hard one, but I had the wrong beta and fell off a dyno twice. I watched Becky Whaley try the move differently, and she topped out. Doing the move her way made the problem a lot easier and I got it third attempt. 

Using the right beta

I flashed the two remaining easy ones, which left me with one problem.

The bloc consisted  of powerful moves. My first attempt I touched the bonus hold, but it was not enough for it to be counted. Second attempt I didn't get any further. Third attempt neither. Fourth attempt I fell off the start move. Even though I wanted to get back on it straight away I knew I wouldn't get any further. So I rested, had some recovery smoothie, and attempted the problem again. I decided I was really going to commit to the move that had previously thrown me off. I pulled hard on my heel and my arm, reached out and got the pocket with two fingers! I had gotten the bonus, I was in the final. I tried the rest of the problem, but didn't get very far.

                                                      The move I kept on falling off

We then waited for the results, had a bite to eat, a sip to drink. I had qualified in fourth place, Sidonie Graham in first, and Becky in 2nd. Westway climber Libby Gamble also qualified for the finals in 5th place. All three Westway girls in final once again, fantastic result! We knew the finals were going to be a spectacle with a supportive crowd, and fun lighting. So off to isolation we went. 

During observation, we looked at our problems and they seemed nasty! After warming up, the first climbers went out. This round of BBCs being slightly more organised then the last, the finalists didn't see each other after having climbed, and couldn't share beta. 

I went out for my first final bloc, read the route, and got on.  I got up it quite easily, the holds were new and grippy. I was extremely sketchy during the last move, my footwork was quite shameful. I was trying to work out a static way of doing the move, as the original beta but it didn't feel comfortable. So I just took my chances and jumped, and amazingly I stuck the hold! I was quite satisfied I had flashed the first bloc. 

                                               Climbing and topping out on final bloc 1

My second final problem wasn't quite as simple. The holds were worse then expected, and the moves bigger. Nevertheless, I threw for a sloper and fell off several times. Nearing the last few seconds, I stuck the sloper, I went for the 2nd bonus hold and held it sufficiently for it to be counted. I fell off because of bad body positioning, but I was overall happy with my performance. 

                                                             Sticking the sloper

My third and final boulder was the climax of my anti-style; reachy and technical moves on poor holds. I started the problem and fell off low down as the hold was worse then expected and my fingers slipped off. Now a bit more prepared I stuck the hold, reached out to a sloper, threw for a bad jug, and rocked over to a small crimp. The last move was big, and my foot popped off. I tried it again but didn't catch the jug. I took a rest and tried again at the last second. I couldn't catch the jug again, and fell off. 

All the competitors were extremely close in score, and it was hard to tell who had podiumed or not. The results arrived, and showed that I had come third! I was extremely pleased with this result, and I flew back to London in a very good mood. 

All photo credits to Bibi Basch. 

Leading Ladder Grand Final 2013

Today was the final of my first ever leading ladder.

Yesterday, the 26th of April 2013, I took the train from London Euston to Oxenholme. We then took a taxi to our luxurious hotel, Travelodge Kendal. After a good night's sleep, we headed off to the Lakeland climbing centre. A little apprehensive about these renowned 25 meter walls, a looked at my routes and they seemed hard, and very out of my comfort zone. 

I warmed up, them ran up the 6b+. I then went on the 6c; I climbed quite steadily until the roof section. I was just about to top out but a hold span. Thanks to my toe hook I stayed on (just about) and clipped the chain. I learned later on that I had in fact span the hold into place and made the move easier for the next climbers. 

 Next up was the 6c+. I belayed Hannah Wuensche, who got extremely high up considering her ongoing injuries. It was then my turn to try it. A long route on a vertical wall. this suited my perfectly and I topped out, although some moves were quite powerful. 

I had a short break, then eyed up the 7a. A short 7 clip route with very powerful moves. After hearing that only Alex Waterhouse had topped it, I was a little scared. I climbed up the route quite easily, but the crux section saw me getting very pumped. I got to the two finger pocket, but the final move which consisted of dynoing from the pocket to a crimp threw me off. 

I took a long rest and had a bite to eat before signing up for the 7a+, which was on the 25 meter overhanging wall. It looked daunting but I was excited to climb on the tallest indoor wall of Britain. So I got on and arrived quite quickly to the bonus hold, a huge jug. I rested, but apparently not sufficiently, as I started to get very pumped on the most overhanging section of the wall. I fought through it, and arrived at the last few moves. I was approaching the no hands rest, and tried to get to it quickly. Bad decision, as I couldn't stick a big move because of my tired arms, and I swung off. I was quite happy with how I had climbed, although I could have managed my time a bit better. 

This put me into joint 2nd position with Catrin Rose and behind fellow Westway climber Grace Fidler, a great result! 

At the prize ceremony, the judges made a counting error and put Catrin, Grace and me in joint 1st position. This was soon rectified and I was back in 2nd place. Grace deserved to be champion, as she put on an exceptional performance on the 7a+, which she flashed! 

It was a very fun day and I enjoyed the climbing very much as well as the Kendal mint cakes! 

Gorges Du Loup 2013

For these Easter holidays, I returned to Gorges du Loup, located in the South of France. We stayed at a friend's house, which was a half hours' drive from Nice airport.

I was sharing a house with 16 people; luckily I got on with all of them, so it was great company. 

Saturday, I could have a relaxed morning as we had an afternoon flight. 

At Gatwick airport, I met up with 3 of the 16 people with whom I flew. 

Once arrived in Nice, it was drizzling. Not a great sign for the rest of the week. We settled down, and a lovely dinner was awaiting us. We had a nice relaxing first evening. 

The next day, everybody else started to arrive. After a quick bite to eat, we headed straight off to Déversé, although we heard the seepage was bad. 

Once arrived, we checked out all the routes and only three were dry, plus one of the warm up routes.  The dry ones were way out of my grade range, so I went up the F6b+ warm up route. I slipped off because of bad footwork on a sketchy rockover, but I went back on it and with a bit more caution I stuck the move easily.  

The seepage at Déversé

Photo: Ellie May

With nothing to do all day, I went up the ladder leading to upstairs to check out the sick views.

On the ladder!

Photo: Ellie May

Day two was La Turbie, a beautiful crag overlooking the whole of Monico, a part of Italy and a part of France. Despite the difficult walk in, the views were spectacular.

The view of Monaco. Photo: Ellie May

We looked at one of the sectors called Big Ben, which was soaking and virtually unclimbable. The more advanced climbers went to another sector called La Grande Face in search of drier routes. The rest of us stayed here and climbed in Le Gentil, where the grades were more suited to our level. 

I warmed up on an F5c, nice and easy until the crux move; a tiny crimp to a two-finger pocket. I just about stuck the hold, and topped out. Next I moved on to an F6b. The rock was sharp and it dug into my fingers, now numb because of the cold. Nevertheless I carried on until my fingers gave in and I fell off. I took a long rest to bring back the circulation to my fingers, then continued until a hard move that I couldn't figure out. The good holds were hidden and it took me quite a few attempts of working the move to find the crimp, that is then used as an intermediate to bring your feet up and go again to a jug. After many painful attempts, I stuck the jug, and continued to the top of the route. I was happy to finish, as it took me quite a long time, and absolutely massacred my skin. 

I walked back to Big Ben to get some food, and found my good friend Pippa swinging across the roof of the cave! He said it was exhilarating, so I asked if I could try and he said yes! I climbed up an F4+ to get horizontal to the lip, then let go and did a huge swing across the cave, over and above the sea. The feeling was crazy, an absolute once in a lifetime experience! 

The Human Pendulum
Photo: Hannah Wuensche

                                      The Human Pendulum
                                      Photo: Ellie May

A great ending to an otherwise not so great day. 

Which brings us to day three, Mesa Verde! 

This crag was perfect. The grade range suited all of us, and we all ended up with projects. 

We decided to start off on the easiest route of the crag, an F6c. Libby lead up it first, but couldn't see the end, but luckily there was a quickdraw already in the wall about 15 meters up along the route, she she clipped into that and stripped the route. Ellie then did in on toprope, followed by me. The rock was crumbly and unpleasant, not a great warm up route. 

Libby and I then moved on to trying an F7b "De la Terre au Ciel" on toprope. I got about 3 quarters of the way up then fell off because of pump. I got back on and fell off once again on the crux, a dyno from a crimp to an undercut. I worked that move for a long time, but didn't get it in the end, and since I was spending too long on the route, I dogged up the move and finished it without a problem. 

2nd redpoint attempt, I did worse than I did 1st attempt. Deciding I was too tired, I tried an F6c+. Already quite pumped from De la Terre au Ciel, I fell off on a rockover that required strength. I rested a few minutes to recover, then finished the route. 

After that, I decided to call it a day. 

Rest is needed! 

Photo: Hannah Wuensche

The next day, we returned to Mesa Verde, as quite a few people still had "unfinished business". I was pleased as I could have another go at the F6c+ and the F7b. I was feeling good. the sky was blue, the sun was shining, the weather was nice. Sweet! 

Good weather = sunglasses!

Photo: HannahWuensche

I got back on the F6c+, and did it in one on toprope. I then tried on lead, but freaked out on a big move and didn't finish it. 

I had another go at De la Terre au Ciel, but didn't get any further. Libby got really close to sending it, but didn't catch the undercut properly and slipped off! Guess it wasn't my time yet. Great project though, and I hope next time I'll send it! 

I found an F7a+ called Castle Rock, which seemed doable. The first section was extremely techy with very few holds. This lead up to the crux move. From a tufa to a gaston, then a dyno to a sidepull. I missed out the gaston as I couldn't find a way of holding it, and spanned the move from the tufa straight to the side pull. This took me quite a few attempts, but I got it in the end, and finished the rest of the route feeling quite pumped. Now that I had all the moves sorted, I could have another attempt and try to send it. 

Castle Rock, 7a+.  Photo: Ellie May

Quite shattered from working Castle Rock, I decided to keep my 2nd redpoint for another time, as we were surely returning here.

Fifth day on and we went to Gréolières, known to us as Bernard. A lot of people didn't like the look of it, so returned to Mesa Verde. I stayed here, and got on a some fantastic routes. First of all, an F6a, with great rock, and really fun moves. Then an F7b which was just my style; big moves, big holds. I got this onsight, very first F7b ticked! 

Day 6, we returned to Mesa Verde, but it had rained a lot and the water started seriously seeping. Since the crux of my F7a+ project consisted of a tufa, it made the move impossible. Such a shame, I really wanted to send that. Oh well, next time. I spent the rest of the day belaying, and doing FAs of easy boulders which was fun.

That was the last day for most people, quite emotional really seeing everyone leave...

On my last day, I went to the local crag called La Bagarrée, where I tried lots of F6c's and F7a's. I didn't manage to send many, as they were all wet. Shame, as it would have been the perfect opportunity to get some F7a onsights. 

We headed back home, finished off our packing and left for Nice Airport. It was unbelievably good weather, and I got my last minute tan on!

I arrived home in the evening, feeling good after a great week in France! 

Thank you Peter and Hannah Wuensche for you amazing hospitality in your beautiful house! 

First Post - Introduction

Hi! I'm Alexia Basch, fourteen years old, and climbing is my life. Sounds kinda cheesy, but there's no other way of putting it. I don't think. 

Photo: Hannah Wuensche

I climb at Westway Sports Center, but recently I've been going to other London venues to get a bit of variety. 

Photo: Hannah Wuensche

I've been in the GB bouldering team since December, after coming third in the Winter Youth Open. But I still lead just as much as I boulder, as I think both sports compliment each other. 

Photo: Peter Wuensche

So on this Blog I will post about my climbing holidays, competitions, and general climbing events! 

Upcoming events:

• Climbing trip in Gorges Du Loup

• British Bouldering Championships round 2 (May 5th)