Not the outcome I had anticipated (JBBC's r3)

I returned from France with Sid and Tara, and we went to Camden on Saturday. We were joined by Gracie and Rachel and had a nice rest day. We returned to my house and had a pre-comp BBQ. After coming back from France with a mediocre result, I really wanted to prove myself at the British Bouldering Championships. I was leading the series but only by 9 points apparently so all could change.

The competition was held in London at my favourite wall, The Biscuit Factory. I was super psyched about this as it meant I would be waking up in my own bed the morning of the comp and climbing on  a wall that I'm familiar with. The tube journey there was slightly hectic but we managed it in the end although we did end up taking a taxi. This made us quite late so I had to warm up in the taxi. Not exactly ideal. We finally got to the wall and registration had closed but we sorted things out and I could eventually get climbing! My warm up was rushed and stressful and I was really nervous.

The format was 8 problems, 3 attempts, 2.5 hours. This much time meant I could have lots of rest between problems, something that was lacking in the EYC as we had half the time with twice as many people. The good thing about doing badly in a comp is that you can learn from your mistakes. The main mistake I made in France was trying the easy problems first. If I had tried the harder, more pumpy problems first I could have probably ticked them. I tried doing that technique at this comp, and it worked. I topped all eight problems, and qualified in joint first. I even managed a problem only one other person did, which massively boosted my confidence.

After a shaky start I had managed it and felt super psyched going into finals. I would go out to climb last, which meant I would know how the other girls did and what I needed to do to win. (although you can't see them climb you can tell by the cheers, and the awwww's. You can also ask when they come back into isolation)

When we went out to view our problems I don't know why but I had a nervous laughing fit. The first problem was a dyno (which I am awful at), and I thought it looked impossible. The second was a big cave problem with big volumes. This one looked like the hardest one with and awkward sequence and a massive lock off (which again, I am awful at). The third was more straightforward; a simple powerful bloc on a slightly overhanging wall.

One after the other the first five girls went out to try bloc n1. 3 out of 5 flashed it, so I knew I had to as well to stay on top. The dyno was actually easy and I topped it without a problem. Again, 3 out of 5 girls flashed problem 2. Maybe it wasn't as hard as it looked. I tried it and it was nails! The lock off was even bigger than it seemed and the hold even worse! I failed the lock off but remained on the wall as I knew I had to get it first attempt to stay with the front runners. I attempted to move again but I was so pumped and confused I was spat off. Oh dear this was not looking good. I tried to calculate how I could still win overall but it seemed impossible. I was angry at myself more than anything. I really wanted to retain my title of British Champion but now I couldn't. I went back into isolation completely distraught.

Sticking the dyno. Credit Sandy Carr

After hearing the cheers and understanding that 4 girls had topped the last bloc, I knew that I would be 4th regardless of whether I topped it or not. Jim said "who cares just flash it anyway". I tried to do so, but the holds were incredibly greasy and my lack of motivation threw me off. I wasn't really bothered about dropping this as it wouldn't change my result.

It was time to announce the overall podiums for the series. I was glad to come 3rd and make the podium, although the feeling does't quite equal that of standing on top last year in Leeds. Becky managed to take the title of British Champion, and I couldn't have been happier that it was her. We've been training together for so long, one never being blatantly better than the other. Last year was my year, and this year was hers. As long as one of us stays on top that's all I can wish for!

I looked at the points separating us and it was only 1. 1 point between first and third, and half a point between first and second. Although I didn't get the official title with the plate, I know that I'm of the same standard ads the Champion, which is alright :)

 Videos of me on my final problems:

F1:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDiW008cmSw


F2 (excuse my mum's shocking filming): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaBsY8eWD24

F3: (excuse my mum's swearing at the end, she did 't realise the top wouldn't have made a difference) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jhg02A1xwHg

The start of the season

L'Argentière 2014 marked the beginning of the european youth bouldering season. Although we were there for a serious competition that didn't stop us messing around in water fights, playing intense games of jungle speed and roasting marshmallows at a BBQ. We were a team of 12 attending the event and we gathered at Stansted Airport to begin our journey. We arrived in Lyon to the rain, which was slightly worrying seeing as the comp was on an outdoor wall. After a stormy drive through the Alps we arrived in the chalet in which we were staying. It was amazing; from the Alpine decor to the bar and dart board, the beautiful finish made the stay all the more enjoyable.

The first day was spent wandering around and ended with some team talks, which were a reminder that we were here to compete, as it felt like a holiday! Tuesday rolled around and I woke up early to get to the wall on time to warm up. The weather was nice, the problems looked good and I was psyched to climb. The youth A girls were kind enough to sacrifice 2 hours of sleep to come and support which was much appreciated!

I had 8 problems, 5 attempts on each and 1 hour and a half to top as many as possible in the fewest attempts. It was strange being alone on the mats as I was the only youth B competitor but the team was with me supporting. I started my qualification round feeling quite shaky but I managed 4 flashes so calmed down a bit. I decided to try the dyno. First attempt, I nearly caught it. I actually surprised myself as it was quite far and I'm rubbish at dynos. I used all my attempts together to keep the muscle memory of the movement. The technique worked as on my fifth and last attempt I stuck it! I moved to the bonus and pulled to the next hold. I fell off but I knew the move was possible and could have been done if I had had the opportunity to work it. Just need to get better at flashing dynos! 

One of the problems was being topped by about half of the girls. If I wanted to get a good result I had to start topping things that others weren't. I got on it expecting it to be easy but it was incredibly hard! I fell off the crux a bit distraught by the difficulty. I kind of wasted my attempts by going on the problem when I wasn't ready as I was rushed, and made silly sequence mistakes which turned out to be very costly. On my last attempt I got past the crux but I was so pumped the last move threw me off. At that point I knew that I had no chance of making finals so I had switch my focus to performance rather than result. I didn't top any more problems, but managed to get 7 bonuses, which is better than 20 of the girls. However my 4 tops meant that I only beat 9, and tops are counted before bonuses so my final result was 17th. 

Last year in Laval I came 7th and everybody (including me) had big hopes of me getting into the final seeing as this year I had the advantage of being in the older half of the category. Of course I was disappointed to go down 10 places even with my age advantage, but I was reminded by the team that I climbed well, just didn't get enough tops. However there is still another euro cup and more importantly the euro champs coming up, so I'll train hard for those and hope to improve my result.

It was nice to spend the rest of the day chilling in the sun supporting the team members in the other categories. Everybody did so well and Hamish made finals!! Seeing him compete in the finals the next day was actually inspirational as he stayed so calm throughout. His brilliant efforts put him in 3rd place! A British podium at the first international yesss!

We had an extra day which was spent being loud in a swimming pool and watching Nath at the international tout-à-bloc comp. It was such a fun trip and I really enjoyed it! Thank you so much to the chaperones who kindly taxied us everywhere, Rachel for her words of wisdom before and after the comp, the whole team for being incredibly loud and supportive and Clive for organising the trip.

The only photo I have from the comp… Team GB and CAC hero John Ellison

JBBC's r2

This weekend has been a physically and emotionally draining one.

I had been stressing about this comp for the preceding weeks, as I thought a 5 day sport climbing trip in France followed by a 3 day Norfolk geography trip would mess up my training and a long rest wouldn't be good right before a comp. Usually I only have a single day. I made the very difficult decision to cancel the sport trip that I had been looking forward to all year in order to train. I don't know if it was worth it, but it definitely shaved off a good deal of stress, which in the past has hindered my ability.

I ended up having a really good time in Norfolk, and did try to get a bit of conditioning training in the mornings. I was then super psyched for the weekend and wasn't worried at all.

My mum and I flew up to Glasgow and arrived in Premier Inn at 11:00 pm. (This was the earliest possible flight, the Norfolk coach came back at 5:30pm). The lack of sleep wasn't ideal, but it had to be dealt with.

The morning of the comp arrived, and I didn't have my usual nerves. I guess I'm getting quite used to competing! I had a good warm up including a sun-salute yoga sequence which I think is a great combination of a pulse raiser, stretch and mobility exercise.  I had 8 problems to do in 2 hours, each within 3 attempts. My qualifiers started badly; I decided to get on the problem with the longest queue as everybody was topping it, in order to secure a flash. The holds were very greasy and the last move was so sketchy, but I just about managed to top. This brought back nerves and I remained quite shaky. I had to take time to recover, but the queue had already taken 15 minutes and the clock was ticking.

I once again decided to get on a problem that everybody was topping to get my confidence back. The queue was very long but this gave me the chance to compose myself. I managed another flash quite easily and got psyched again, so I decided to get on a hard problem. I watched some people fall off the crux using a high foot so I planned I would use my own beta of dynoing. It worked, and I continued up the problem expecting to get to the top. I completely forgot my plan made on the floor as I was too excited to have passed the move. Obviously, my body positioning went skew whiff and I tipped off.

 Forgetting the tech. Photo- Bibi Basch

I was kicking myself, how could I have been so stupid! I could have easily flashed it, and was very hard on myself for not doing so. All my stress about Norfolk rushed back. Was I weak from the rest? No, I can't keep on using Norfolk as an excuse for everything. I composed myself and got back on the problem, and topped it. I kept concentrated and flashed another 2 problems. I then jumped on a problem with no queue that strong people were falling off before the bonus. I really wanted to get past them and my motivation got me to the last move. It involved an awkward drop knee and too much faffing about trying to figure it out threw me off. I knew it was doable so I rested and got back on. This time I slapped the last hold. I still had 2 problems to try so I left it. One of the 2 looked easy so I got on quite confident. As I got to the crux I prepared myself and went for the hold. I didn't latch it, and completely lost the plot.

I've always looked at people who cry during a comp and thought, "why on earth are they getting so upset, it really doesn't matter". I never thought I would be one of those people. I've always been one to stay positive and never care about winning. At the December comp, my competitiveness came out as for the first time I actually had the goal to win. This time I had the same mindset. Only the pressure had doubled, as the management team was selecting for the European Youth Cup Circuit. I guess all the pressure that had culminated due to stressing about Norfolk and the euro's climaxed. I'm so extremely grateful for everybody who was there to pick me back up and console me. That's the problem with having goals, if you don't reach them you've 'failed'.

This breakdown was in fact completely irrational - I still had two more attempts I knew that I could do the problem. I handed my scorecard back in. With 5 minutes left and a very long queue, was I going to get another go? 1 minute left on the clock and my name was called out! I was so determined and could hear all the encouragements from the mat - that's what got me to the top.

I'm so pleased I was able to get my head back in the game even after a breakdown. I thought for a second I was out of the game. I often see climbers fall off then get really demotivated and give up, even professional climbers in World Cups. I think my coaches have taught me so much about the psychological aspect of climbing that my mind is now "trained", in a way...

 Photos:
-Left: Sandy Carr

-Right: Bibi Basch

Photo - Sandy Carr















I made finals in 4th place, and isolation gave me the opportunity to get psyched and learn my French GCSE oral presentation! I must have looked like a right weirdo mumbling random words to nobody...

Our first final problem was a slab; I hadn't really been training slabs as I was focusing more on my strength because that, ironically, was my weakness. I still love slabs though, and I went out to it thinking, "have fun with it dude". I got to the last move on my first go, slightly mucking up my feet near the end. On my 2nd I made the same mistake but on the mats while I was resting I figured it out and got back on feeling ready. I placed my heel on the volume and started to rock over, but my other foot popped and I was off. The time ran out and I had to go back into isolation. One more go and I would have topped it I thought. My time management was not quite right, but this was a learning curve and now I have more experience to learn from. (By the way I did try the problem after the comp and I managed to get it straight away)

I went out to problem two with the mindset to flash it. If I wanted to podium I needed to start topping out. It was powerful, big moves and greasy holds. I completely messed up the sequence the whole way through, but somehow, I managed to flash it. I tried the moves as I intended but they didn't work so I tried them a different way, all in one attempt. This wasted a lot of energy so I was pretty pumped after. I went back into iso and I was so happy with my flash I did a little dance because I couldn't contain my excitement. I thought I was having a really bad day after qualifications but I was now so psyched and ready for problem 3. It was once again very powerful, very dynamic and shouldery. I looked at it and thought, "eh, I can do that". With that it mind at every move, and the cheers getting louder and louder each hold I held, my determination grew until I matched the last hold. I now had a guaranteed podium but I didn't care too much, I was just really happy with my performance in the finals and that all that strength training really paid off for the last 2 problems. Turns out only 1 of the Youth A girls (16-17 yo) managed to flash the last problem and that made me all the more excited.

Photos: Sandy Carr


Hannah Slaney put on an exceptional performance, topping all three problems, and she took gold. I'm very happy with my silver, and even happier that I got selected to compete for the first European Youth Cup in L'argentière France! Psychhhhhhhh! Also I am now winning the Junior British Bouldering Championship series! One step closer to retaining my British Champion title!

The next day was a team training. Needless to say I had no energy left and the problems I had flashed the previous day felt impossible. We had a very useful talk on nutrition that I've always wanted to know more about so that was really cool. Then after a few motivational talks by Tom it was time to head back to London!

This weekend has taught me a lot about myself and how what training you do really affects your performance. My coach Alli has taught me to see mistakes as an improvement opportunity and this tip has definitely helped me this season.

Oh yeah one more thing congratulations to James and Luke who got back on the GB team! They're amazing and deserve it so much yay!

CWIF 2014 and stanage

I couldn't go to CWIF last year because I was skiing, so this year was the first time I could finally compete. I was in team psych with Pete, Ed and James. We had the afternoon session so I took advantage of this by snooping around looking for beta in the morning. I was shocked by how many international people there were! 

30 problems, 3 and a half hours. About 28 were technical and 2 burly ones. I was really pleased about this, firstly because for once the strong-but-no-technique people would be caught out, and secondly because it gave a chance for the weaklings (me) to do well. There were no easy problems; the easi-EST problems all had one or two difficult moves that could throw somebody off. So basically, there no guaranteed points. This made it difficult to plan strategies such as making the transition between warm up and competition, and I definitely underestimated the grade of a few of them. The meat coking grading (rare, medium, and well done) was not much help.... Despite all of this, the problems were amazingly set, really weird and fun and different to anything I'd ever climbed. It felt like the setters put a lot of effort into setting them, as the moves were thought out, technical and precise. 

I managed to flash about 8, then get a few second and third attempt. My final score was 112, and the semi final score was around 150. So not too far off. I came 32nd, and 20 made the semis finals. Not too bad considering I was competing against adults from around the world! 

I had a good dinner with the farmers (plus Hannah) at Wagamama although I don't understand the obsession with the chicken katsu curry.... 

On Sunday morning I went to stanage with the farmers and Luke, really inspired by Alex's retro flash of Brad Pitt! We didn't get so lucky... Not much was done at all, as it was excruciatingly windy and cold. 

We returned to Sheffield, and I headed off back to the Works in a taxi. The driver gave my mum and me a lecture on how amazing Sheffield was, then continued to say how much he hated London! He named just about every cost of living in London, then every benefit of living in Sheffield. It's strange how I have polar opposite views of what he said! 

The following weekend, I headed back to Sheffield, this time for the boulder team training. I enjoyed a luxurious train ride in first class with free wifi and tea! Win! I arrived an hour late so I missed the initial talk but apparently it was exactly the same as last year so I wasn't too worried. We received our new kit, took our team photos and filled out a questionnaire, before heading to the works for  some climbing! We did this circuit thing, where we had 3 rounds of 4 problems. We had 10 minutes on each problem then a rest between the rounds. I managed to top all of the problems but one, which I was very pleased about. In the afternoon we did loads of different mobility exercises as well as various stretches - super psyched to start doing these! 

The next day we went to stanage. I heard it was going to be cold and windy but it was actually quite mild and no where near as windy as the previous week! I was keen to get back on green traverse, and a few other projects. The grit had good friction and it wasn't unbearably cold! I didn't get green traverse but I managed a 2nd attempt send on a solid 6c. Good effort to Pete for sending Brad Pitt (7c) even though the crux hold was sopping wet! And also Hamish with Snatch (8a)!! Crushing! 

Deliverarete, 6a+ 

Although I didn't get much done (once again!), it was great to spend a day out with the team on rock and get some more experience on gritstone!  

#gbjuniorboulderingteam 

All photos courtesy of Phil Waterhouse.

2014 Innaugrial meeting

By the end of 2013 I had gotten onto the British team, become British boulering champion, and came 7th in a European Youth Cup. This year I hope to make a European final, get a top 10 World ranking (I was 18th last year because I only went to one EYC) and go on a Haggis Hunt. I think they are all possible.

2014 kicked off with the innaugrial team meet, which was held in Sheffield at a really big fancy hotel. It was so nice to catch up with all the team and have a laugh with flappy bird. Tom Greenall presented most of the speeches, and it was awesome to be reminded of how well the boulder team did last year. After a bit of celebrating the past, the topic quickly shifted to the future. Some more talks were presented about how to be a good athlete and what was expected from a team member. Afterwards we did a bit of team building in the (extremely muddy) gardens, followed by medicals and the psychological test. We could then go to the climbing works and finally start climbing! We did these cool games such as doing a boulder blindfolded/fig-fouring every move/power screaming every move/without hands... amongst others. Thanks Rachel it was so much fun! The rest of the day was spent climbing the amazing problems that are so different to the Westway set.

Sunday saw us go to the gym and do some tough circuits as well as our FMS tests. We did so many squats my quadriceps were aching so much the next day it hurt to walk. After lunch we went back to the Works and were put in teams of two to create problems for the other teams. I was paired up with Tom and we made a long slabby traverse into some powerful end moves. Only about 2 or 3 of the team managed to top it! The rest of the day was spent bonding with the new team.  I worked on attempt efficiency in particular, and I am quite proud to say that I did manage to burn off some of the strong boys on a couple problems :)

2014 is going to be a good year and I can't wait for comp season! 

Photo: most of team GB 

Lead Winter Youth Open

It's a bit belated but I finally got round to writing this. 

The day after the bouldering event, it was the lead event, held at the Foundry. It was extremely crowded and walking round the center was a real mission! I didn't have a great warm up and was getting tired really easily. It didn't help that the bouldering the day before was really tiring. It is a format one has to get used to, having two comps in one weekend but it does save a lot of money and traveling so I can't complain. It was freezing and I felt as if my fingers were about to fall off. Nevertheless, my time came to climb my first qualifying route. It was nice and juggy and after a bit of messing about at the top I stuck the crux and managed a top. 7 others topped it but 8 went through to the final so I was in with a chance. My 2nd route didn't go as planned. It was full of tufas and volumes, surprisingly. I didn't get past the crux but only 5 people did so I made the finals! I was so happy because I hadn't been leading my best recently as I had been focusing on bouldering for the team selection. 

On the first route, photos Peter Wuensche 

I was really stressing out in isolation I don't exactly know why. I knew I wouldn't make the lead team so I wasn't worrying about that, but lead comps just make me panic. The fact that I might slip off the first move then I won't have a chance to get back on makes me really nervous. During observation we found out our final routes; my category got one of the boys' qualifiers, a long pumpy route on the steep main wall, so I gathered the beta and could even ask a few of the boys who had done this route for tips. This slightly ruined the 'onsight' aspect of the final since we had seen people climb this all day, so being in observation was rendered useless. Just before going out I got some wise words of encouragement from boulder team manager Tom Greenall telling me to focus on everything that could go right, instead of panicking on what could go wrong. With these thoughts in my head I stepped up to the wall and started the route. It was easier than I thought and the only thing hindering me was pump and scare. I got quite high up but then realised I hadn't clipped. I got a heel hook in and reached for the rope but I panicked my heel would slip and my arms gave in. I swang off really happy with how I had climbed. Phil Waterhouse gave me his usual "not bad for a boulderer" when lowering me down. My efforts put me into 8th place. I can't complain; not the best result but I gave the route my all so I'm very pleased.

Final route, photo Peter Wuensche

Final route, photo Nick Pope

As expected I didn't make the lead team but I kept my place on the bouldering team although I'm no longer the baby of the family :( The team training is pretty soon, beginning of February. We will tragically miss Rocfest but I'm psyched to see the new team and everyone! 

Boulder winter youth open 2014

This year has been incredible; getting on the team, meeting new people, going to a European, some experiences I never thought possible. This weekend would determine if I could re live that all over again! And I wanted it so much. 

 The 7th and 8th of Demeber saw the return of the bouldering and leading weekend. The bouldering was to be on Saturday, much to my delight. 

I travelled up with Hannah and her dad, and after a slightly chaotic journey to say the least, we somehow managed to arrive at Jury's inn. I was pleasently surprised to find an ice dispenser as I have a small obsession with ice cubes.

Saturday morning I got up before Hannah as Youth B start earlier. I arrived at the works and checked out the problems. We had 8 to do in 2 hours and a half. As expected, they looked so good, and really funky as well. 

After a bit of socialising, route reading, and warming up we got started. I stepped onto the mats feeling slightly more nervous than usual. There was a lot at stake; this could be the last time I wear the GB kit. I tried to forget everything and focus on one thing: crush. 

I felt my warm up was really thorough so I didn't need to queue for the easiest one as my first problem. I jumped on a few medium-grade ones and bagged a few flashes. Moving on to slightly harder ones, I managed to dispatch a dynamic/campusy bloc, but dropped the slab. I decided to have a break as we still had about an hour and half left. Feeling fresh again, I went on to try the hardest problem, which was shared with the boys so the queue was gradually increasing. After a lot of faffing about I got my act together and secured the bonus, but the last move proved to be challenging. I knew it was doable, so I got back on soon after. I couldn't figure out that last move, so I chose to save my last attempt for later. I went back to the slab and it felt so much easier this time, knowing the right beta. I managed to top it and I was so happy! Only one left now!

Half an hour left and that queue was getting really long. I put my scorecard in and had time to cool down, rest, and re warm up again. Stepping on the bloc I felt so strong and confident that I would top this. Falling off was not even an option. When it came to the last move I positioned my feet, pounced and caught the hold! That was when I realised something - if I had doubted my ability and thought I might fall off, I wouldn't have gotten the problem. But since I knew I could, I did. Simple as. 

             - photo Peter Wuensche

            - photo Nick Pope

I had finished qualifications with 8 tops in 11 attempts, making finals in 2nd just behind Catrin, who secured 8 tops in 10 attempts. Effort to her who isn't even a boulderer :) 

So off to isolation we went. 

The finals were to be in 4+ format. So 4 minutes to do the problem but if we are still on the problem when the clock runs down we can continue. The warm up area was satisfactory so I felt strong when going out for my first problem. Looking at it, I thought I could do it. However, the holds were in fact slopers which amplified the difficulty. The move which had thrown off the other competitors was proving to be challenging - a pop to a sloper which you had to stick but I kept cutting loose and swinging off. I wasn't getting pumped so I could pile on attempts to figure out the move. At 30 seconds I jumped on, stuck the move, slipped in my heel, but it popped and I came down. I had time for one last attempt. I couldn't latch the sloper and I swung off. Nobody managed to top it. I got the bonus first attempt, so I was relatively pleased. 

           - Photo Peter Wuensche

              Swing! Photo - Sandy Carr

The second problem was techy and pumpy. Going for the wrong hold on my first attempt threw me off but I corrected this in my 2nd and achieved the top. I didn't know this yet, but if I had flashed this I would have won. 

                 Me and Tommy on bloc 2 , photo Peter Wuensche

Third problem was perfect. Balancey, volumey, slaby. I was happy to get this first attempt even though the last move saw me barn door like mad! Not proud of that but pleased to achieve the top.

My efforts put me into 2nd place. I am of course delighted with this position, but for the first time ever, I was disappointed not to have won. It was so close. Separated by one attempt. If I had just known the avoid the undercut. But that's just the way the cookie crumbles and if somebody had to beat me I'm over the moon it was fellow Westway climber Becky Whaley. She made the team, a dream of hers since a long time. I also made the team and I'm soooo psyched for 2014! Gonna be a sick year :D 

           Interesting face on the podium.. Photo - Nick Pope 

I'll post up another blog for the lead event the next day sometime soon :)